Anjouan

Comoros' Spice Island, with the Arab-Swahili old town of Mutsamudu, the old city of Domoni and ylang-ylang plantations, and volcanic lakes in the hills for hiking.

Anjouan (Ndzuani) is the second-largest island of the Union of the Comoros, lying in the northern mouth of the Mozambique Channel between Grande Comore and Mayotte. Covering about 424 square kilometers, it is a rugged island where volcanic ridges plunge straight into the sea. Rainforest, terraced fields, and clove and ylang-ylang plantations cover its slopes, earning it the nickname Spice Island. The climate is tropical maritime. The cool, dry months from May to October are the best time to visit, while November to April is hot, humid and rainy, with a risk of cyclones.

Sights fall into three areas: the capital Mutsamudu, with its Arab-Swahili old town, Friday Mosque and hilltop fort; the historic east-coast town of Domoni, with the nearby Bambao sultan's palace and an ylang-ylang distillery; and the central highlands, with Dziani Dzaha crater lake and hikes up Mount Ntingui, plus snorkelling at Moya Beach on the south coast and Saddle Island off the northwest coast.

Getting around: Ouani Airport has daily flights to Grande Comore (Moroni) and Mohéli, and ferries run to Mayotte and other islands. Shared taxis are the main way to get around. Roads are poor, so hiring a car with a guide is recommended. Plan 3-4 days. The Comoros is a conservative Islamic society, so dress modestly and always ask permission before photographing people. Tourist facilities are limited. Carry Comorian francs and euros, and check visa requirements and safety advisories before you go.

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