Santander & Cantabria
Cantabria's capital and an elegant seaside city, with the Altamira Cave, the medieval village of Santillana del Mar and Cabárceno Nature Park close by.
Santander is the capital of the autonomous community of Cantabria in northern Spain, spread along the Bay of Santander. In the early 20th century it was the Spanish royal family's summer retreat, and El Sardinero beach, the Gran Casino and the Magdalena Palace still carry an elegant Belle Époque air; the old town was rebuilt after the great fire of 1941, and the modern Centro Botín has given the bay a fresh look. The climate is mild, wet and Atlantic: Jun–Sep is best for swimming and outdoor activities, while winters are mild but rainy. Plan your visit in three parts: one day in the city (Pereda Gardens, Centro Botín, the cathedral, the market, and the bayside promenade to the Magdalena Peninsula and El Sardinero); one day heading west (the Altamira Museum, Santillana del Mar and Gaudí's El Capricho in Comillas, extending to San Vicente de la Barquera and El Soplao cave); and routes south and east (Cabárceno Nature Park, the World Heritage cave of El Castillo and Liérganes, or the beaches of Laredo and the Faro del Caballo lighthouse in Santoña). Getting there: Santander Airport has budget flights to destinations across Europe; the train from Madrid takes about 4–5 hours, and Bilbao is about an hour's drive away. Buses to the surrounding villages are infrequent, so renting a car is recommended. Visits to the original World Heritage caves are limited and must be booked in advance on the official website. Allow 3–4 days; the Picos de Europa deserve a separate, in-depth trip.
Top sights
- Magdalena Palace – An English-style palace on a peninsula jutting into the bay. It was once the summer palace of the Spanish royal family, and the peninsula p…
- El Sardinero Beach – Santander's most famous city beach, divided into First and Second Beaches. Behind it stand Belle Époque hotels and a casino, and it was a s…
- Cabárceno Nature Park – A semi-wild zoo built on a former open-pit iron mine, where elephants, giraffes and brown bears roam among karst stone forests. You can exp…
- Santillana del Mar – One of the best-preserved medieval towns in Spain. Cobbled streets are lined with aristocratic stone houses bearing coats of arms and woode…
- Museum of Altamira – A national museum beside the UNESCO-listed Altamira Caves. Its full-scale 'Neocave' faithfully recreates the painted ceiling of bison from…
- El Capricho de Gaudí – An early work by Gaudí, with its exterior covered in sunflower-patterned tiles and a tower resembling a minaret. It is one of only three of…
- Centro Botín – A floating art centre designed by Renzo Piano, its façade covered with 280,000 ceramic tiles. It shows contemporary art and Goya drawings.
- Collegiate Church of Santa Juliana – The most important Romanesque building in Cantabria. Its 12th-century cloister capitals are finely carved, and it is the origin of the town…
- Comillas – A seaside town that flourished in the 19th century thanks to the Marquis of Comillas. It has a concentration of Catalan modernist buildings…
- Palacio de Sobrellano – The neo-Gothic palace of the Marquis of Comillas, designed by the Catalan architect Martorell. Next to it is a family chapel with furniture…
- Santander Cathedral – A Gothic cathedral with the Crypt of Christ beneath it, built on the city's oldest hill and rebuilt after the 1941 fire.
- Jardines de Pereda & Paseo de Pereda – Seaside gardens in the city centre. On one side is Pereda Avenue, lined with 19th-century buildings with glass balconies. On the other side…
- Gran Casino del Sardinero – A Belle Époque casino opened in 1916. Its white façade and the Plaza de Italia make the most classic view of El Sardinero.
- Cabo Mayor Lighthouse – A cape lighthouse built in 1839 and set on high sea cliffs. The art centre beside it and the cliff path are excellent places to watch the s…
- Mercado de la Esperanza – An iron-and-glass food market built in 1904. Downstairs is the seafood fish market of Cantabria, and upstairs sells cheese, ham and local p…
- Museo Marítimo del Cantábrico – A maritime museum on the bay, with an aquarium, a whale skeleton, fishing boats and displays on naval history. Good for families.
- Museum of Prehistory and Archaeology of Cantabria – An archaeology museum in the city centre with bone carvings, stone tools and Roman-era Cantabrian stelae from the region's prehistoric cave…
- Somo & El Puntal Beach – A long sandbar beach across the bay from Santander, reached by ferry in 15 minutes. Somo is a famous surfing town in northern Spain.
- Caves of Monte Castillo – A World Heritage cave site at Puente Viesgo where you can enter the original caves to see red dots and handprints about 40,000 years old, a…
- El Pendo Cave – A World Heritage cave just over 10 km from Santander, with a set of red "painted frieze" art in its huge chamber. A good choice for visitor…
- El Soplao Cave – A geological wonder famous for its masses of excentric speleothems, which are twisted stalactites. You ride an old mine train inside. It is…
- Santoña & Faro del Caballo – A cliff trail on Mount Buciero in Santoña, the anchovy capital, which descends nearly 700 steps to the Faro del Caballo lighthouse at the f…
- Laredo & La Salvé Beach – The longest urban beach in Cantabria, a golden sandy stretch of about 5 km next to the medieval old town of Laredo, known as the Puebla Vie…
- San Vicente de la Barquera – A small fishing town at an estuary, with a long stone bridge, a castle and a Gothic church set against the snowy peaks of the Picos de Euro…
- Liérganes – A stone-built old village on the Miera River, known for its 17th-century stone bridge and the legend of the Lierganes Fish-Man. It is surro…
- Bárcena Mayor – A mountain village hidden in the depths of the Saja-Besaya Natural Park, with intact stone houses and wooden balconies. It is considered on…
- Liencres Dunes & Costa Quebrada – Extensive dunes and pine forest at the mouth of the Pas River, adjoining the Costa Quebrada geopark, where sea stacks and rock strata are s…
- Mataleñas Beach – A small sea-cliff cove between Pequeño Cabo and Cabo Mayor, reached by descending steps from the park. The water is clear, and it is a loca…
- Covalanas Cave – A UNESCO World Heritage site known as the “Cave of the Red Deer,” where more than twenty hinds are outlined in ochre-red dots in a distinct…
Where to eat
- El Serbal – A renowned Santander restaurant that has continuously held a Michelin star, located near El Sardinero beach, featuring…
- Cañadío – An established restaurant described by Michelin as a "Cantabrian institution," famous for its delicate rabas batter and…
- Casona del Judío – A Michelin-starred restaurant set in a 19th-century Indiano mansion, using seaweed and coastal herbs to showcase Cantab…
- Bodega del Riojano – A historic Michelin-selected bodega restaurant in Santander, where paintings by artists on wine barrels are a major hig…
- El Machi – Claiming to be the oldest tavern in Santander, specializing in three styles of rabas and various seafood rice dishes.
- Conde Luna – A home-style charcoal grill restaurant next to Mataleñas Park, whose Cocido Montañés was once featured on a Spanish pos…
Itineraries
- Green Spain Coast-to-Coast Road Trip – Drive west from San Sebastián along the Bay of Biscay to Santiago de Compostela, connecting the coasts and mountains of…
- Picos de Europa Three-Sided Traverse & Cantabria – Loop around the Picos de Europa from the western lakes to the eastern Liébana Valley, then head to the coast at Santill…