Naxos

The largest of the Cyclades: sunsets at the Portara of the Temple of Apollo, long golden beaches, marble mountain villages and ancient kouros statues – more relaxed and affordable than Santorini.

Naxos lies in the central Aegean and is the largest and most geographically varied of the Cyclades, covering about 430 km²; at its centre rises Mount Zas (1,004 m), the highest peak in the archipelago. The island is fertile and self-sufficient in potatoes, cheese, olive oil and kitron liqueur, and tourism arrived later than on Santorini or Mykonos, so it is more laid-back and more affordable. The island can be divided into: the capital Chora on the west coast (the Portara of the Temple of Apollo, the Venetian Kastro old town, the Archaeological Museum); the beach strip south of Chora (Agios Georgios, Agios Prokopios, Agia Anna, Plaka, Mikri Vigla, Alyko); the Tragaea valley and mountains in the centre (Temple of Demeter, Halki, Filoti, Apeiranthos, Mount Zas, kouros statues, Byzantine churches); and Apollonas, Koronos and Moutsouna in the north and on the east coast. In summer you can also take a boat to Koufonisia in the Small Cyclades. The best season is May–Oct; in Jul–Aug the strong northerly meltemi wind often blows, making the west coast great for kitesurfing, while June and September bring warm water and fewer visitors. Getting there: ferries from Piraeus or Rafina near Athens take about 3.5–6 hours, and domestic flights take about 45 minutes; there are frequent ferries to and from Paros, Santorini and Mykonos. KTEL buses link Chora with the beaches and main mountain villages, but renting a car is recommended for the villages and sights in the north. Stay 4–6 days.

Top sights

• Portara (Temple of Apollo) – A massive marble doorframe standing on the small island of Palatia, the surviving remnant of the unfinished 6th-century BCE Temple of Apoll…
• Naxos Chora & Kastro – A hilltop castle district built by the Venetian Duchy in the 13th century, surrounded by white maze-like lanes, noble mansions and Catholic…
• Agios Prokopios Beach – Naxos's best-known beach, with about 1.5 km of golden sand and clear blue water, repeatedly named among Europe's finest beaches.
• Plaka Beach – A roughly 4 km stretch of white sand backed by dunes and reeds; the quieter southern section is a great place to watch the sunset.
• Archaeological Museum of Naxos – Housed in the former 17th-century Jesuit school inside the castle, with a rich collection of marble figurines and pottery from the Cycladic…
• Agios Georgios Beach – A city beach just south of Chora, with shallow, gently sloping water. It is within walking distance and suits children and beginner windsur…
• Agia Anna Beach – A fishing village linked to two beaches, with a white chapel on the rocks, plenty of restaurants and accommodation. It is a good base for a…
• Mikri Vigla – A granite headland divides two beaches. The north side is exposed to the wind and is a kitesurfing hotspot, while the south side is calm an…
• Alyko Beach & Cedar Forest – A protected juniper forest peninsula with bays on either side and an unfinished abandoned hotel covered in street art. It is a popular phot…
• Temple of Demeter (Gyroulas) – A marble temple from around 530 BC in a valley near Sangri, restored and rebuilt. It is one of the most important Archaic temples in the Cy…
• Sanctuary of Dionysus at Yria – The ruins of a sanctuary to Dionysus on the outskirts of Chora, rebuilt four times since the Mycenaean period. In myth, Naxos is the island…
• Apeiranthos – A mountain village known as the “Marble Village,” with streets paved in marble, a Venetian tower and four small museums.
• Halki & Vallindras Kitron Distillery – The former capital of the Tragaia valley, with neoclassical buildings, a Byzantine church and the Vallindras distillery, which has made cit…
• Filoti – The largest mountain village on Naxos, at the foot of Mount Zas. Its café and taverna under the plane trees on the square are the starting…
• Mount Zas & Cave of Zeus – The highest peak in the Cyclades at 1,004 metres. According to legend, Zeus grew up here, and the summit offers views over the islands afte…
• Kouros of Flerio – An unfinished young male statue abandoned in an ancient marble quarry, about 5.5 metres long, lying in an orchard garden for more than 2,50…
• Kouros of Apollonas – A giant unfinished statue, about 10.5 metres long, in an ancient quarry above the village at the northern tip of the island. Below lies the…
• Panagia Drosiani – One of the oldest Byzantine churches in the Cyclades, with 6th- and 7th-century wall paintings still preserved and a plain, ancient stone d…
• Bazeos Tower – A fortified 17th-century monastery tower converted into a cultural centre. In summer, the Naxos Arts Festival holds exhibitions and concert…
• Koronos – A terraced mountain village built along a gorge, once prosperous from emery mining. Its stone-stepped lanes and waterfall trails have a wil…
• Moutsouna – A small fishing harbour on the east coast. It was once the port from which emery was shipped, and its old cableways and seaside tavernas ma…
• Chimarros Tower – A round marble tower from the Hellenistic period in the wild southeastern hills of the island, about 15 metres high. It is one of the best-…
• Koufonisia (Small Cyclades) – A group of small islands southeast of Naxos. Their turquoise water and white sandy bays have earned them the nickname the “Caribbean of the…

Where to eat

• Maros Taverna – Family taverna in the old town of Naxos Chora, with generous portions at low prices; half portions are available, it st…
• Scirocco Restaurant – Family restaurant opened in 1995 by two brothers on Courthouse Square, known for vine-leaf rolls, meatballs and foil-ba…
• Metaxi Mas – Family ouzeri in a lane of Naxos's old market, good for sharing Naxian small plates and clay-pot dishes.
• Taverna Axiotissa – Garden family taverna in Kastraki on the west coast, where most ingredients and wine are home-produced; oregano-braised…
• Amorginos – Family meat taverna in the marble village of Apeiranthos, with its signature garlic-tomato pork rosto and mountain view…

Itineraries

• Cyclades Island Hopping: Paros, Naxos & Santorini – Depart from Athens and hop through Paros, Naxos, and Santorini on a one-way southward route with no backtracking.