Naples & Amalfi Coast

The birthplace of pizza and the ruins of Pompeii, plus the Amalfi Coast with Positano and Capri's Blue Grotto: southern Italy's most popular mix of history and sea views.

Naples is the capital of the Campania region in southern Italy and the country's third-largest city. It lies on the northern shore of the Bay of Naples, with Mount Vesuvius rising to the east. South of the bay is the Sorrento Peninsula; over the peninsula lies the Amalfi Coast facing the Gulf of Salerno (Positano, Amalfi and Ravello, a World Heritage Site since 1997), and offshore from the tip of the peninsula is the island of Capri. The climate is Mediterranean; May–June and September–October, with temperatures of 20–27°C, swimmable seas and ferries running in full, are the best times. July–August is hot and crowded, with severe traffic jams on the coast road; November–March is mild, but most coastal ferries stop running and many hotels and restaurants close, so it suits visiting only Naples and Pompeii. There are three core areas: first, the city of Naples, with the Spaccanapoli street in the historic center (a World Heritage Site), the National Archaeological Museum, the Royal Palace and the waterfront, plus the food of pizza's birthplace, 1.5–2 days; second, the archaeological sites of Pompeii and Herculaneum at the foot of Vesuvius, 1 day; third, the coastline of Sorrento–Positano–Amalfi–Ravello and the island of Capri, 2–3 days. Getting around: the Alibus from Naples Airport takes 20 minutes to Central Station, and the high-speed train from Rome takes 70 minutes; from Naples to Pompeii and Sorrento, take the private Circumvesuviana railway (about 35/70 minutes; watch for pickpockets on board) or the Campania Express tourist train; from April to October, fast boats leave Molo Beverello in Naples directly for Capri (50 minutes), Sorrento, Positano and Amalfi; along the coast, SITA buses link Sorrento–Positano–Amalfi (extremely crowded in high season), and ferries are more comfortable; driving the coast road is not recommended, as parking is extremely difficult and expensive. We suggest 5–6 days, staying 2 nights in Naples plus 2–3 nights in Sorrento or Positano. Note: keep a close eye on belongings in Naples' old town and around the station, as motorbike bag-snatching occasionally happens; bring sun protection and water for Pompeii and Vesuvius; coastal towns are full of steps, so pack light; the Blue Grotto on Capri can close at any time depending on sea conditions, and in high season the wait is 1–2 hours.

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