Spaccanapoli
A straight ancient street that splits the old town of Naples in two, lined with laundry lines, nativity-scene workshops, Gothic churches and historic pizzerias. It is the soul of the city.
Spaccanapoli means “Split Naples.” It is the “lower decumanus” of the ancient Greek and Roman city plan. It runs in a straight line for 2 km from the Quartieri Spagnoli in the west, eastward through the old town, which is a World Heritage Site. Seen from Castel Sant'Elmo, it looks like a line cutting the city in two. Highlights along the street, from west to east, include the Gesù Nuovo church, whose façade is covered in diamond-shaped stones, and across from it the Santa Chiara monastery, with its majolica-tiled cloister (€6). Next are Piazza San Domenico Maggiore and the Cappella Sansevero (Sansevero Chapel), which houses the marble sculpture Veiled Christ (€10; reservations required; closed on Tuesdays). Then comes Via San Gregorio Armeno, the nativity-scene craftsmen's street. Handmade nativity figures and figurines of famous people are sold here year-round, and it is busiest in December. On the parallel street to the north, Via dei Tribunali, you'll find famous pizzerias such as Sorbillo and Di Matteo, where a Margherita costs about €5–8 and queues are the norm. The street also has the Napoli Sotterranea underground tour (€10) and the cathedral, where the miracle of San Gennaro's blood takes place every year on September 19. The streets are narrow and crowded, with scooters weaving through. Laundry lines and shrines strung across the alleys are the most distinctly Neapolitan sights. Suggested plan: start from Piazza del Gesù and walk east for 2–3 hours, stopping to eat a pizza fritta (fried pizza) or a sfogliatella pastry along the way. Metro Line 1 stops at Dante or Toledo (Toledo is considered one of Europe's most beautiful metro stations), each a 5-minute walk away. Note: keep your phone and bag secure, and do not walk alone through quiet alleys at night.
Opening hours
All day
Nearby sights
- Piazza del Plebiscito
- Royal Palace of Naples
- Teatro di San Carlo
- Galleria Umberto I
- Castel dell'Ovo
- Castel Nuovo (Maschio Angioino)
- Quartieri Spagnoli
- Santa Chiara Monastery