Ravello
A clifftop town 365 meters up. Villa Rufolo and the “Terrace of Infinity” at Villa Cimbrone overlook the entire Amalfi Coast, and Wagner once found inspiration here.
Ravello sits on a ridge 365 meters above Amalfi, far from the bustle of the coastal road. Since the 19th century it has been a retreat for writers and musicians. Villa Rufolo (admission about €10, 09:00 to sunset), beside the cathedral square, was built in the 13th century. Its Moorish towers and cloisters overlook tiered garden terraces that face the coastline and the Bay of Maiori. In 1880 Wagner found inspiration here for the magic garden of Klingsor in Parsifal. Every summer the Ravello Festival stages symphonic concerts on a stage built out over the garden, with the sea as the backdrop. From the square, it is a 10-minute walk through the lanes to Villa Cimbrone (admission about €10, 09:00 to sunset). This garden was remodeled by an English aristocrat in the early 20th century. At its far end, the Terrace of Infinity (Terrazza dell'Infinito), lined with marble busts, faces the sea 300 meters below. It is the most famous viewpoint on the coast, and Greta Garbo once lived here in seclusion. The Duomo (cathedral, 1086), with its bronze doors and mosaic pulpit, and the cafés on the square are also worth a stop. Ravello's ceramics (Ceramiche) shops are more refined than those in Amalfi. Getting there: the SITA bus from Amalfi takes about 25 minutes (€1.3), with one to two buses an hour, crowded in peak season. You can also walk up from Atrani along the ancient stone steps, about 1 hour (roughly 1,200 steps). Drivers can park at the tunnel entrance. Half a day is enough. It is best to come up from Amalfi in the morning to avoid the midday heat, or stay overnight to enjoy the quiet evenings.
Opening hours
All day (two villas 9:00 am until sunset)