Ajaccio

Napoleon's birthplace and the capital of Corsica, with a charming harbour old town and sunsets over the Sanguinaires Islands; to the north, the red cliffs of Piana and the Scandola Nature Reserve are a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Ajaccio is the capital of Corsica and of the Corse-du-Sud department, set on the northern shore of the Gulf of Ajaccio on the island's west coast. It is also the birthplace of Napoleon Bonaparte. The old town lies between the port and the Genoese citadel, and Napoleon's birthplace (Maison Bonaparte), the cathedral, the Palais Fesch art museum, Place Foch and the morning market are all within walking distance. West of town, the Route des Sanguinaires runs about 12 km to the Pointe de la Parata, where you can watch the sun set over the Sanguinaires Islands. Using Ajaccio as a base, drive about 2 hours north along the coast to Piana and the Gulf of Porto: the Calanques de Piana, Girolata and the Scandola Nature Reserve are together a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and in summer full-day boat trips also leave from Ajaccio's port. To the east, about 1.5–2 hours by rail or road through the Vizzavona Forest, lie the old inland town of Corte and the Restonica Gorge. About 40 minutes south is the prehistoric megalithic site of Filitosa, while Porticcio, on the southern side of the gulf, is a beach resort area. The climate is Mediterranean: May–Jun and Sep–Oct bring pleasant temperatures, ideal for combining hiking and beaches; Jul–Aug is the hottest and most expensive time, so book boat trips and hotels in advance; in winter most boat trips are suspended. Getting there: Ajaccio Napoleon Bonaparte Airport has flights to Paris, Nice and Marseille, and ferries sail from the port to Marseille, Toulon and Nice. Buses on the island are infrequent, so renting a car is strongly recommended; mountain roads are narrow and winding. Plan on 3–5 days: one day for the old town and the Pointe de la Parata, 1–2 days for Piana, Porto and Scandola (consider staying a night in Porto), one day for Corte and the gorge, and half a day for Filitosa. Local specialities include Corsican charcuterie, brocciu cheese, chestnut-flour desserts and chestnut beer.

Top sights

Maison Bonaparte – The family home of Napoleon, who was born here in 1769. It is now a national museum displaying Bonaparte family relics and portraits.
Îles Sanguinaires & Pointe de la Parata – A headland at the western end of Ajaccio Bay. A 16th-century Genoese tower and four red porphyry islets make up Corsica's most famous sunse…
Calanques de Piana – The heart of the Gulf of Porto World Heritage Site. Red granite rising 400 metres above the sea has been carved by wind and weather into pi…
Scandola Nature Reserve – A volcanic rock coastline reserve that can only be reached by boat. It features purple-red columnar cliffs, sea caves and ospreys' nests, a…
Palais Fesch & Imperial Chapel – The collection museum of Cardinal Joseph Fesch, Napoleon's uncle, holding the finest Italian paintings in France after the Louvre, with a f…
Ajaccio Old Town & Port – The core of the old town, formed by the Genoese citadel, Place Foch, the morning market and the fishing harbor; most sights can be linked b…
Ajaccio Cathedral – A 16th-century Venetian-style cathedral where Napoleon was baptized; the baptismal font from that time is preserved at the entrance.
Place d'Austerlitz & Grotte Napoléon – A Napoleon monument on the west side of the old town; its steps are inscribed with his battles, and legend says the young Napoleon often re…
Girolata – A small fishing village with no road access, guarded by a Genoese fortress beside a red-rock bay; it can only be reached by boat or on foot…
Porto (Ota) – A small port at the head of Porto Gulf, with a square Genoese tower on red rock and eucalyptus-lined beaches; it is the departure point for…
Gorges de la Spelunca – A red-rock gorge between Ota and Évisa, with an old mule path and a Genoese stone bridge; the natural pools in the stream stay refreshingly…
Cargèse – A seaside town founded by Greek immigrants, where a Catholic church and a Greek chapel face each other across the street, overlooking the b…
Capo Rosso – A red headland southwest of Piana, where a trail climbs to a 331 m Genoese tower overlooking the entire cliff coast.
Corte – The historic town in central Corsica, with a castle perched on a rocky peak like an eagle's nest; it was once the capital of Pasquale Paoli…
Restonica Gorges & Lac de Melo – A granite gorge southwest of Corte with clear stream pools; a hike of about 1 hour from the Grotelle shepherds' parking area leads to Lac d…
Cascade des Anglais – A stepped waterfall and emerald pools in the pine forest of the Vizzavona pass, the easiest stretch of the GR20 trail.
Forêt d'Aïtone – An ancient Corsican black pine forest above Évisa, where forest streams form natural bathing pools, a favorite summer retreat.
Filitosa – Corsica's most important prehistoric site, where carved stone statues with human faces, armor, and swords stand among the olive trees, some…
Lac de Tolla – A mountain reservoir in the Prunelli River valley, its waters reflecting chestnut woods and mountain villages. Kayaking and other water act…
A Cupulatta – One of Europe's largest tortoise conservation centers, home to more than 150 species of land and freshwater tortoises from around the world…
Porticcio & Agosta Beach – A resort area on the south shore of the Gulf of Ajaccio, with fine sandy beaches, shallow water, and gentle waves, and views across to the…
Capo di Feno Beach – A wild beach north of the Sanguinaires road, with a long stretch of sand framed by red rocks and scrubland, loved by surfers and visitors s…

Where to eat

A Cantina di Ghjulia – A mother-and-daughter-run family bistro next to the cathedral, famous for its Corsican veal stew with olives, making it…
L'Écrin – A Michelin-recommended small restaurant located away from the main tourist crowds in the old town, serving refined Medi…
A Nepita – A small, husband-and-wife-run market bistro serving a short menu that changes daily based on the catch and market finds…
Le Saint Pierre – Tucked away in an alley next to the Old Town market, this seafood restaurant is highly rated for its fresh fish, Corsic…
Bistro Canaille – A bistro with an elevated terrace next to the cathedral, offering views of the sea and the church, a relaxed and divers…

Itineraries

Corsica Grand Loop 14-Day Self-Drive Tour – Drive counter-clockwise from Bastia, connecting Cap Corse, the west coast, the southern cliffs, and the central highlan…
Southern Corsica Coast & Mountain Loop – Depart from Ajaccio and head south to Bonifacio, explore the beaches and Lavezzi Islands, then return via the Bavella P…
Corsica by Train: Car-Free 8-Day Crossing – Take the narrow-gauge railway from Ajaccio through the mountains to Corte, Calvi, and Bastia without driving.
Corsica & Sardinia Two-Island Self-Drive – Drive south from Bastia across Corsica, cross the sea to northeast Sardinia, and travel via the Emerald Coast to the Gu…