Zaragoza
Aragon's capital on the Ebro, home to the Basilica of Our Lady of the Pillar and the Aljafería Palace, World Heritage Mudéjar architecture and lively tapas lanes.
Zaragoza is the capital of Aragon in northeastern Spain, with a population of about 670,000. It sits in the Ebro Valley between Madrid and Barcelona, each only about 1.5 hours away by high-speed train, making it an ideal stopover between the two cities. Its history goes back to Caesaraugusta, the Roman city founded under Augustus; later came the Islamic Taifa kingdom and the Kingdom of Aragon, leaving layers of heritage from Roman ruins and Moorish palaces to Mudéjar brick churches — the Mudéjar Architecture of Aragon is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The main sightseeing area is the old town on the south bank of the Ebro: Plaza del Pilar links the Basilica of Our Lady of the Pillar, La Seo Cathedral and La Lonja; to the south, the narrow lanes of El Tubo are the place for tapas; to the west lie the Central Market, the Roman walls and the Aljafería Palace; and the Expo 2008 site in the northwest of the city showcases modern architecture. Classic day trips include the Civil War ruins of Belchite's old town, Goya's birthplace Fuendetodos, and the Monasterio de Piedra Natural Park, about 110 km southwest, with its many waterfalls. The climate is continental and semi-arid: summers are scorching, often above 35°C, and winters bring the strong northwesterly cierzo wind, so April–June and September–October are best. The Fiestas del Pilar around 12 October are the city's biggest celebration, so book accommodation early. In town, walking plus the tram is all you need; for sights outside the city, drive or join a tour. Plan on 1–2 days: one for the old town and the Aljafería, one for a day trip. Many churches and museums close on Mondays and at midday, so plan accordingly.
Top sights
- Cathedral-Basilica of Our Lady of the Pillar – The symbol of Zaragoza, with four towers and a multicoloured tiled dome reflected in the Ebro River. It is one of Spain's most important pi…
- Aljafería Palace – A palace built by the Islamic Taifa kingdom in the 11th century. Its Moorish arcades and Mudéjar ceilings are well preserved, and today it…
- La Seo Cathedral – A cathedral built on the site of an ancient Roman forum and a mosque. Its exterior walls, decorated with Mudéjar tile patterns, are a highl…
- Puente de Piedra – A 15th-century stone arch bridge across the Ebro River, guarded by lion statues at each end. It is the best spot for photographing the full…
- El Tubo – A network of narrow lanes in the old city centre, packed with tapas bars. It is the heart of Zaragoza's culture of eating small plates and…
- Monasterio de Piedra – A forest park with a series of waterfalls in a gorge, plus a 12th-century Cistercian monastery. It is Zaragoza's most classic day trip.
- Plaza del Pilar – One of Europe's largest pedestrian squares, linking the Basilica of Our Lady of the Pillar, La Lonja, the City Hall and La Seo Cathedral. I…
- Goya Museum – Ibercaja Collection – Aragon's most important Goya collection, showcasing Goya's paintings and his complete print series, housed in a 16th-century Renaissance ma…
- Caesaraugusta Theatre Museum – The ruins of a 1st-century Roman theatre that could seat about 6,000 spectators. It is the most spectacular of the four museums on the Caes…
- Caesaraugusta Forum Museum – Roman forum and sewer ruins beneath La Seo Square, entered through a striking stone cube.
- Church of San Pablo – One of the Mudéjar World Heritage monuments. Its octagonal brick tower is decorated with coloured tiles, making it the most distinctive chu…
- La Lonja de Zaragoza – A 16th-century Renaissance commodity exchange, whose tall colonnaded halls now serve as a municipal exhibition venue.
- Central Market of Zaragoza – An iron-and-glass market completed in 1903, restored and reopened in 2020, where you can buy Aragonese ham and cheese or enjoy a snack.
- Roman Walls of Zaragoza – A surviving section of Roman city wall with semicircular towers beside the Central Market, with a bronze statue of Augustus standing in fro…
- Museum of Zaragoza – Aragon's most comprehensive provincial museum, with everything from archaeological finds to Goya paintings. Admission is free.
- Pablo Gargallo Museum – A museum devoted to the work of Aragonese modern sculptor Gargallo, housed in a Renaissance palace, with distinctive openwork metal sculptu…
- Basilica of Santa Engracia – A church with an ornate silversmith-style stone portal and underground tombs of early martyrs. It bears witness to the siege of Zaragoza du…
- Parque Grande José Antonio Labordeta – Zaragoza's largest urban park, stretching along the Huerva River, with a stepped fountain, a monument to Alfonso I and a botanical garden.
- Expo 2008 Site – Water Tower & Bridge Pavilion – The site of the 2008 World Expo, themed on water and sustainable development. Zaha Hadid's Bridge Pavilion and the 76-metre Water Tower are…
- Zaragoza River Aquarium – One of Europe's largest freshwater aquariums, with exhibits arranged by five river basins: the Nile, Mekong, Amazon, Darling and Ebro.
- Torreón de la Zuda – A medieval tower in the northwest corner of the old town. The ground floor houses the tourist information centre, and the top-floor viewing…
- Belchite Old Town – A small town preserved as ruins after being destroyed during the Spanish Civil War. The broken walls of its churches and streets are deeply…
- Goya's Birthplace, Fuendetodos – The rural stone house where Goya was born, next to a printmaking museum. It is a good half-day trip from Zaragoza for Goya fans.
- Monastery of Veruela – A well-preserved 12th-century Cistercian monastery at the foot of Moncayo Mountain, with simple but majestic cloisters and church.
Where to eat
- La Prensa – A long-established one-star Michelin restaurant where chef Marisa Barberán creates contemporary tasting menus with seas…
- Casa Lac – Founded in 1825 and one of Spain's oldest restaurants, serving Aragonese dishes made with vegetables from the Ribera va…
- El Champi – A classic little bar in El Tubo that serves essentially one thing: garlicky sizzled mushroom skewers, paired with a gla…
- Taberna Doña Casta – El Tubo's most popular croquette bar, with plenty of flavors; its squid-ink black rice and chocolate chicken croquettes…
- Bodegas Almau – A family-run old tavern opened in 1870 and now in its fourth generation, famous for its anchovy tapas and a wine list o…
Itineraries
- Aragon Historic Cities & Ordesa – Starting and ending in Zaragoza, connect Civil War ruins, Loarre Castle, Ordesa Canyon, and medieval towns.