Scottish Borders
The Tweed Valley on the Scotland–England border, where the ruins of four great abbeys, including Melrose and Jedburgh, and Sir Walter Scott's home at Abbotsford bear witness to border history.
The Scottish Borders lie in south-east Scotland, bordering Northumberland in England to the south, with the River Tweed flowing west to east across the region. In the Middle Ages this was a frontier fought over repeatedly by England and Scotland: the four great abbeys David I founded in the valley — Melrose, Jedburgh, Dryburgh and Kelso — were burned time and again by English armies, and today their ruins, together with the tower houses scattered across the hills, tell the story of the borderland's bloody past. In the 19th century the writer Sir Walter Scott settled here, and his Romantic works made the region famous across Europe. Melrose makes a good base: nearby are Melrose Abbey, Scott's home at Abbotsford, Scott's View, Dryburgh Abbey and walks in the Eildon Hills. To the east, Kelso has its abbey and Floors Castle, with Smailholm Tower and Mellerstain House easy to add on the way; to the south, Jedburgh has its abbey and Mary Queen of Scots' House, and further south still is bleak Hermitage Castle; to the west, around Peebles, are Traquair House, the Glentress Forest mountain bike trails and Dawyck Botanic Garden; and on the north-east coast, St Abb's Head offers cliffs and seabirds. The best time to visit is May–Sep, and in summer the towns take turns holding their Common Ridings. From Edinburgh, the Borders Railway takes about 1 hour to Tweedbank, from where you can continue by bus or bike to Melrose; sights are spread out, so driving is easiest. Allow 2–3 days. Many stately homes and castles open only Apr–Oct, so check before travelling in winter.
Top sights
- Melrose Abbey – Scotland's most magnificent Gothic abbey ruin, said to hold the heart of Robert the Bruce.
- Abbotsford – A castle-style home on the banks of the River Tweed, designed by Walter Scott, author of Ivanhoe, with a library of nearly 9,000 books.
- Jedburgh Abbey – The best-preserved of the four great Border abbeys, with a tall church that blends Romanesque and early Gothic styles and survives almost i…
- Dryburgh Abbey – A tranquil abbey ruin in woodland in a bend of the River Tweed, where Sir Walter Scott and Field Marshal Haig are buried. Considered the mo…
- Kelso Abbey – Once one of the wealthiest of the four great abbeys, now reduced to its towering west tower and Romanesque arches.
- Floors Castle – The largest inhabited castle in Scotland, the home of the Dukes of Roxburghe, set in gardens on the banks of the River Tweed.
- Traquair House – Said to be the oldest continuously inhabited house in Scotland, visited by 27 monarchs, and known for its home-brewed beer and maze.
- Smailholm Tower – A 15th-century border tower standing alone on a rocky knoll, the place that inspired Walter Scott in his childhood. Very photogenic.
- Eildon Hills – Three small hills just south of Melrose, with the remains of an Iron Age hillfort on the summit and views over the entire Tweed Valley.
- Scott's View – Walter Scott's favourite viewpoint, with the River Tweed winding below and the three Eildon peaks standing in the distance.
- Mellerstain House – A Georgian-style manor house designed by William Adam and completed by his son Robert, known for its delicate plasterwork ceilings and Ital…
- Thirlestane Castle – A pink sandstone castle outside Lauder, home of the Maitland family, famous for its ornate 17th-century plasterwork ceilings.
- Bowhill House – The country residence of the Duke of Buccleuch, holding paintings by Canaletto and Reynolds, with pleasant lakeside walking trails in the g…
- Hermitage Castle – A bleak border fortress on the windswept moors, known as the guardian gate of England, where Mary, Queen of Scots, rode to visit the badly…
- Peebles – An elegant market town on the River Tweed, lined with independent shops and a base for exploring the western Borders' forests and estates.
- Neidpath Castle – A 14th-century L-plan tower castle in the Tweed gorge, reachable on foot from Peebles along the riverside path.
- Dawyck Botanic Garden – A satellite garden of the Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh, whose three-hundred-year-old arboretum gathers towering trees from around the wor…
- Glentress Forest – One of Britain's best-known mountain biking centres and the starting point of the 7stanes trails, with treetop adventure and forest walks t…
- St Abb's Head – A spectacular sea-cliff nature reserve on the northeast coast of the Borders, where tens of thousands of seabirds nest on the cliffs in spr…
- Mary Queen of Scots' Visitor Centre – A 16th-century tower house in Jedburgh where Mary, Queen of Scots, recuperated in 1566, with exhibits on her life and possessions.
- The Great Tapestry of Scotland – A new gallery in Galashiels housing a 143-metre-long tapestry of Scottish history, hand-embroidered by over a thousand volunteers.
- Leaderfoot Viaduct & Trimontium – A Victorian railway viaduct with 19 arches over the Tweed, next to the site of Trimontium, Scotland's largest Roman military camp.
- St Mary's Loch – The largest natural loch in the Borders, ringed by hills and calm and expansive, with an old inn on its shore that was once a gathering pla…
- Robert Smail's Printing Works – A working Victorian letterpress print shop in Innerleithen, where you can set type by hand and print your own souvenir cards.
- Priorwood Garden – A walled garden beside Melrose Abbey devoted to flowers for drying, with a historic apple orchard.
- Jedburgh Castle Jail & Museum – A 19th-century reformed prison built on the site of an old castle, where you can visit the cells and learn about the history of Jedburgh.
Where to eat
- The Hoebridge – A small Michelin Guide-listed restaurant in Gattonside, where a self-taught local chef serves a monthly-changing intern…
- Provender – A family-run restaurant on Melrose's High Street, once a Michelin Bib Gourmand and now listed in the Michelin Guide, se…
- Giacopazzi's Fish & Chips and Ice Cream – A century-old family business by Eyemouth harbour, founded by Italian immigrants, popular for fish and chips and award-…
- The Caddy Mann – A rural restaurant just outside Jedburgh, once named Britain's best game restaurant, with a menu that changes daily acc…
- Ebb Carrs Seafood Café – A small seafood café by St Abbs' fishing harbour, serving crab and lobster baguettes and seafood salads at good value…
- The Plough Inn, Leitholm – A family-run village pub near Coldstream, highly rated on TripAdvisor and famous for its homemade lasagne on Italian Ni…