Trastevere

An old neighborhood on the west bank of the Tiber, with cobblestone lanes, old houses draped in ivy, and laundry lines. It is where Romans eat carbonara and pizza and drink late into the night.

Trastevere means 'across the Tiber.' It is one of Rome's oldest working-class neighborhoods. Its medieval street pattern and ochre-colored old houses are well preserved. It is quiet by day, but after dark the outdoor seating of restaurants and bars fills with locals and visitors. It is considered the most authentically 'Roman' district. Its heart is the Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere. The basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere, built in the 3rd century and rebuilt in the 12th, is one of Rome's earliest churches dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Its façade and gold mosaics in the apse are especially striking under evening lights. The fountain steps in the square are the neighborhood's living room. Dining is the main activity here. Family-style trattorias such as Da Enzo al 29 (expect a queue), Tonnarello, and Da Teo serve cacio e pepe, carbonara, amatriciana, and fried artichokes. Trapizzino sells 'pizza pockets.' Along Via della Lungaretta are bars and gelato shops. On Sunday mornings, the Porta Portese flea market is Rome's largest second-hand market. On the western side of the neighborhood, the Janiculum Hill (Gianicolo) offers a free panoramic view of Rome. A noon cannon is fired there as a tradition. The walk up takes about 20 minutes. On the north side, the Villa Farnesina has frescoes by Raphael. From the historic center, it is about 15 minutes' walk across the Ponte Sisto or past Tiber Island. You can also take tram 8 or bus H. The best plan is to go in the early evening. Head up the Janiculum to watch the sunset, then return to the neighborhood for dinner and spend the night in the square. Note: high heels are impractical on cobblestones. Popular restaurants have queues after 8 p.m., so arrive before 7 p.m. or make a reservation. Late at night the neighborhood is crowded, so watch for pickpockets and drunk people.

Trastevere

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Places to eat nearby