Rennes
The capital of Brittany, with a half-timbered old town and the lively Saturday Marché des Lices; to the west lies the legendary Arthurian forest of Brocéliande, to the east the castle town of Vitré.
Rennes is the capital of the Brittany region in northwestern France, at the confluence of the Vilaine and Ille rivers. With about 220,000 inhabitants and over 60,000 students, it is a young university city. A great fire in 1720 destroyed much of the northern part of town, so the city has two faces: the old town to the south keeps its crooked, colourful 15th–17th-century half-timbered houses, while the north is laid out with classical stone squares built after the fire, epitomised by the Parlement de Bretagne and the Hôtel de Ville. The climate is mild and oceanic, with cool summers and rain year-round; May–Sep is the best time to visit, with the Tombées de la Nuit street arts festival in early July and the Transmusicales music festival in December. Sightseeing centres on three areas: the old town (Place du Champ-Jacquet, Place Sainte-Anne, the cathedral and the Portes Mordelaises), the classical quarter around the Parlement and the Hôtel de Ville, and the Parc du Thabor to the east; on Saturday morning, don't miss the Marché des Lices for a galette-saucisse. There are two main day trips: about 40 km west is the Arthurian forest of Brocéliande (Paimpont), where you can drive between the Val sans Retour, Merlin's Tomb, the Fountain of Barenton and the Château de Comper; or take the train about 25 minutes east to the medieval castle town of Vitré. Fougères, the Château de Combourg and Mont-Saint-Michel to the north are also often visited from Rennes—see the Mont-Saint-Michel destination. Getting there: the TGV from Paris Montparnasse takes about 1.5 hours; the city has two metro lines, and the old town is easily explored on foot. Allow 2–3 days, and you'll need a car for the forest. Note that Brittany's weather is changeable, so always carry a raincoat.
Top sights
- Rennes Old Town – A medieval half-timbered district that survived the great fire of 1720. The crooked, colourful old houses around Place du Champ-Jacquet are…
- Parlement de Bretagne – Seat of the 17th-century Parliament of Brittany. The gilded Grand'Chambre is the most dazzling indoor space in Rennes.
- Parc du Thabor – Rennes' most beautiful urban park, where French formal gardens, a rose garden and a botanical garden come together in a former Benedictine…
- Marché des Lices – A French open-air market that opens every Saturday morning and is said to be France's second largest. Don't miss the buckwheat galette wrap…
- Brocéliande Forest (Forêt de Paimpont) – The magical forest of the King Arthur legends, with lakes, ancient trees and sites linked to the Merlin stories scattered through the woods…
- Les Champs Libres & Musée de Bretagne – A cultural complex designed by Christian de Portzamparc, housing the Museum of Brittany, a science center, a planetarium, and a library.
- Musée des Beaux-Arts de Rennes – A long-established art museum on the banks of the Vilaine, with masterpieces including Georges de La Tour's 'The Newborn Child' and Rubens'…
- Rennes Cathedral (Cathédrale Saint-Pierre) – A neoclassical cathedral with a plain exterior and a gilded coffered ceiling inside, housing a 15th-century Flemish carved wooden altarpiec…
- Portes Mordelaises – The 15th-century city gate and drawbridge, the only well-preserved section of Rennes's medieval city walls.
- Hôtel de Ville & Opéra de Rennes – A town hall designed by Jacques Gabriel after a fire, which together with the curved-façade opera house opposite forms a graceful civic squ…
- Place Sainte-Anne & Rue Saint-Michel – A nightlife hub surrounded by half-timbered houses, with bars lining Rue Saint-Michel, nicknamed 'Rue de la Soif' ('Thirsty Street') by stu…
- Basilique Saint-Sauveur – An 18th-century Baroque church in the heart of the old town, venerated because of a legend that the Virgin Mary's apparition halted the spr…
- Notre-Dame-en-Saint-Melaine – An ancient abbey church beside the entrance to Thabor Park, retaining 11th-century Romanesque structures and a cloister.
- Écomusée du Pays de Rennes – An open-air museum in a farm south of the city, showcasing five centuries of rural life and local Breton livestock.
- Val sans Retour & Arbre d'Or – A legendary valley where the fairy Morgan trapped unfaithful knights. A golden chestnut tree, erected after a forest fire, is the forest's…
- Tombeau de Merlin – A Neolithic stone monument identified as the resting place of the magician Merlin, its crevices stuffed with visitors' wish notes.
- Fontaine de Barenton – A legendary magical spring in the forest where Merlin met the Lady of the Lake, Viviane. Its bubbling water is believed to summon storms.
- Château de Comper (Centre de l'Imaginaire Arthurien) – A lakeside castle said to be the crystal palace of the Lady of the Lake, housing the Arthurian Imagination Centre, with storytelling guided…
- Paimpont Abbey & Lake – A 13th-century abbey church reflected in Lake Paimpont. The village it sits in is the central base for exploring the forest.
- Château de Trécesson – A 15th-century castle built of red schist, reflected in its moat, with a legend of a ghostly 'White Bride.'
- Château de Vitré & Old Town – A triangular medieval castle and a half-timbered old town, among the best-preserved historic towns in Brittany. Reachable by train in 25 mi…
- Château des Rochers-Sévigné – The country home of letter writer Madame de Sévigné, where she wrote many famous letters. Features an octagonal chapel and a French formal…
- Bécherel, Cité du Livre – One of France's first 'book towns,' with more than a dozen secondhand bookshops in the stone houses of a hilltop village, overlooking the s…
Where to eat
- Breizh Café (Rennes) – Bertrand Larcher's crêperie that brought Breton crêpes to Japan; organic buckwheat crêpes with Japanese touches, recomm…
- Racines – Michelin one-star restaurant run by Rennes-born chef Virginie Giboire, serving refined contemporary cuisine built on sm…
- Crêperie Saint-Georges – One of Rennes' best-known creative crêperies: all 35 buckwheat crêpes are named after famous 'Georges', in a stylish se…
- OEUF – A 'new-style crêperie' run by three childhood friends, using organic buckwheat for Rennes' signature sausage crêpe, wit…
- Imayoko – Japanese bistro opened next to chef Julien Lemarié's starred restaurant Ima; its lunch donburi is recommended in the Mi…
Itineraries
- Classic Normandy – Drive west from Giverny, connecting Rouen, the Alabaster Coast, Honfleur, the D-Day Landing Beaches, and Mont Saint-Mic…
- Normandy, Brittany & Loire Valley Grand Tour – Depart from Paris and loop through the Normandy Coast, the Emerald Coast, and the Loire Châteaux before returning to Pa…
- Emerald Coast & Mont Saint-Michel – Based in Saint-Malo, drive to Dinan, Cap Fréhel, Cancale, and Mont Saint-Michel.
- Car-Free Normandy 5-Day Rail Itinerary – Travel entirely by train and bus, visiting Rouen, Bayeux, the D-Day Landing Beaches, and Mont Saint-Michel before retur…
- Brittany Peninsula Coast Loop – A loop around the peninsula from Rennes to Nantes, taking in the Emerald Coast, Crozon cliffs, Pointe du Raz, and the C…