Përmet

A small 'city of roses' in the Vjosa valley, with the Bënja hot springs, an Ottoman bridge, Lengarica Canyon and rafting in Europe's first wild river national park.

Përmet lies in Gjirokastër County in southern Albania, in the Vjosa valley beneath the 2,000-plus-metre Nemërçka range. Known as the 'City of Roses', it is famous for its neat, tidy streets, fruit preserves (gliko), raki and wine. The town's landmark is the City Stone on the banks of the Vjosa, and Byzantine-era churches such as those at Leusa and Kosina are scattered around it. The main attraction is Bënja, 12 km to the southeast, where natural sulphur hot springs, the 18th-century Kadiut Bridge and Lengarica Canyon sit side by side — enough for a full day of soaking, canyon wading and rafting. In 2023 the Vjosa became Europe's first wild river national park, and Përmet is the base for rafting and kayaking. To the northwest is Këlcyra Gorge, and in the mountains to the northeast are Hotova Fir National Park and Frashër, home village of the Frashëri brothers. The best season is May–October; July–August days are hot but perfect for the springs and canyon wading, and September–October brings the grape and preserves festivals. Getting there: about 4 hours' drive from Tirana or 1.5 hours from Gjirokastër; long-distance buses also run, but you'll need your own car or a hired driver to reach Bënja and the mountain villages. Plan on 2 days: one for the Bënja springs and canyon, one for rafting plus the town and its churches. Many mountain churches must be opened by a caretaker, so call ahead, and carry cash.

Top sights

• Benjë Thermal Baths – Open-air natural hot springs on the banks of the Langarica River, where several natural sulfur pools are free to use. They are Permet's top…
• Langarica Canyon – A limestone canyon extending upstream from Benjë Thermal Baths, with hiking, canyoning, and rafting options.
• Vjosa Wild River National Park – Europe's first wild river national park, with Permet as the base for rafting and kayaking on the Vjosa River.
• Kadiu Bridge – An 18th-century Ottoman-era single-arch stone bridge over the Langarica River, next to Benja Thermal Baths. A popular photo spot.
• City Stone of Përmet – A massive rock standing beside the Vjosa River, with steps to the top for views over the small town and river valley. It is a landmark of P…
• Church of St. Mary, Leusë – An 18th-century Byzantine-style Orthodox church with murals covering its interior, in a small village on the hillside south of Përmet.
• Church of the Dormition, Kosinë – A 12th–13th-century Byzantine brick church with a cross-shaped plan and fine brickwork, in a village in the northwest hills of Përmet.
• Këlcyrë Gorge – A steep gorge carved by the Vjosa River through the mountains. The road runs alongside it, and riverside restaurants serve grilled fish.
• Fir of Hotovë-Dangëlli National Park – One of Albania’s largest national parks, with rare Balkan fir forests suitable for hiking and picnics.
• Frashër Brothers Museum & Tekke – Hometown of the Frashëri brothers, leaders of Albania’s National Awakening movement, with a memorial museum and a Bektashi tekke.
• St. Paraskevi Church, Përmet – An 18th-century Orthodox church in Përmet with a wooden iconostasis and frescoes, within walking distance of the town center.
• Mount Nemërçkë – A limestone mountain range stretching along the east side of the Vjosa Valley, with its main peak at 2,485 m. It is the classic hiking rout…

Where to eat

• Trifilia – Përmet's most acclaimed slow-food restaurant, famed for slow-roasted stuffed lamb leg and honey-walnut baked sheep's ch…
• Te Culi – A family-run slow-food eatery by the Vjosa River, with excellent reviews for its lamb soup and moussaka.
• Sofra Permetare – An affordable slow-food restaurant on the main street with an extensive menu and many vegetarian options; the wedding l…

Itineraries

• Southern Albania Historic Towns, Coast & Valleys 15-Day Grand Road Trip – A self-drive loop around the south, covering historic towns, the Riviera, Benjë Thermal Baths, and Korçë.