Pécs

A historic southern Hungarian city with a Mediterranean feel, where World Heritage–listed early Christian tombs sit alongside an Ottoman mosque and the Zsolnay porcelain quarter, close to the Villány wine region.

Pécs is the seat of Baranya County in southern Hungary. Home to about 140,000 people, it lies on the southern slopes of the Mecsek hills and enjoys a distinctly Mediterranean climate, so it is often called Hungary's most southern-European city. Its history goes back to Roman Sopianae, and its 4th-century early Christian burial chambers are a World Heritage Site. In the Middle Ages it was a bishop's seat, and Hungary's first university was founded here in 1367; Ottoman rule in the 16th–17th centuries left mosques and the remains of Turkish baths; in the 19th century Zsolnay porcelain made the city famous across Europe, and in 2010 it was a European Capital of Culture. The best time to visit is April–October, with almond blossom in spring and the grape harvest in autumn both beautiful; summers are fairly hot. The main sights are in the compact old town – Széchenyi Square, the Mosque Church, the cathedral and its crypts, the museums of Káptalan Street and the pedestrianised Király Street – which can all be seen on foot in a day. East of the centre is the Zsolnay Cultural Quarter, and the TV tower and zoo sit on Mecsek hill north of town. Day trips include the Villány wine region for red wines, Siklós Castle and the Harkány thermal baths, or the Orfű lakes and caves to the northwest. Getting there: InterCity trains from Budapest take about 2.5–3 hours, and the drive along the M6 motorway about 2 hours. Plan on 2–3 days; having a car is the easiest way to explore the surrounding area.

Top sights

• Early Christian Necropolis of Pécs – An underground necropolis of 4th-century Roman Sopianae with well-preserved wall paintings. It was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Sit…
• Mosque of Pasha Qasim – A green-domed building on Széchenyi Square, a former mosque converted into a Catholic church. It is a symbol of Pécs.
• Pécs Cathedral – A Romanesque cathedral with four towers, begun in the 11th century. The interior is richly decorated with gilded murals, and visitors can c…
• Zsolnay Cultural Quarter – A cultural complex converted from the former Zsolnay porcelain factory, home to glazed-tile architecture, museums, and a family-friendly le…
• Széchenyi Square & Zsolnay Fountain – The sloping square at the heart of Pécs' old town, framed by the Gazi Kasim Pasha mosque-church, City Hall and a bull-head Zsolnay fountain.
• Yakovali Hassan Pasha Mosque – The only Ottoman mosque in Hungary whose minaret survives intact, with a small exhibition on Ottoman culture inside.
• Csontváry Museum – Houses large oil paintings by Hungarian Expressionist painter Csontváry, including his masterpiece “The Lonely Cedar.”
• Zsolnay Museum – Housed in an old residence on Káptalan Street, the museum street, displaying Zsolnay porcelain masterpieces in chronological order.
• Victor Vasarely Museum – Victor Vasarely, the father of Op Art, was born in Pécs; his birthplace museum displays his optical illusion works.
• Pécs Synagogue – A Romantic-style synagogue completed in 1869, with well-preserved painted ceilings and an organ.
• Barbican of Pécs – The best-preserved round medieval defensive fortress, at the northwest corner of the old town, with a garden walking path along its walls.
• Király Street – A pedestrian street running east from Széchenyi Square, lined with colorful facades, the National Theatre and cafés.
• Pécs National Theatre – A lavish neo-Renaissance theater completed in 1895, with a roof decorated in Zsolnay glazed tiles.
• Kodály Centre – A concert hall built during Pécs' 2010 European Capital of Culture year, praised for its acoustics and frequent classical concerts.
• Pécs TV Tower – A 197-meter TV tower on Misina Peak, with an observation deck and rotating café at 72 meters offering views over the city.
• St. Mary of the Snow Church – A small church on the hillside north of the old town; the terrace in front is the best viewpoint over Pécs' rooftops and the cathedral.
• Pécs Zoo – A medium-sized zoo in the forest of the Mecsek Hills, with an aquarium and reptile house, suitable for family outings.
• Abaliget Cave – A limestone cave about 15 km northwest of Pécs, with an underground stream, stalactites and a bat museum.
• Orfű Lakes – Four artificial lakes in the Mecsek Hills, offering summer swimming and boating, with walking and cycling routes around the water; a backya…
• Pécsvárad Castle – The ruins of a Benedictine abbey-castle founded by Saint Stephen I, with a Romanesque chapel and a museum.
• Szigetvár Castle – The heroic fortress of 1566, where Miklós Zrínyi resisted Suleiman's great army, a landmark of Hungarian history known to everyone.
• Mohács National Memorial Park – The site of the 1526 Battle of Mohács, where more than a hundred carved wooden grave pillars stand over the burial ground in a solemn atmos…
• Szekszárd – Capital of Tolna County and the heart of Hungary’s red wine country, with a Baroque square, a poet’s former home and many wine cellars in t…

Where to eat

• Morzsa Konyha – A bakery bistro with two chef's hats from Gault&Millau, recommended by the Michelin Guide, selling sourdough by day and…
• Balkan Bisztró – Balkan charcoal-grill spot on Ferencesek Street, where the ćevapčići served with house-made ajvar are a local favorite…
• Kossuth Kisvendéglő – A young bistro featured in Gault&Millau that carefully reinterprets Hungarian classics with modern techniques, with goo…
• Elefántos Étterem – Old-school Italian restaurant in Pécs, opened in 1996, certified by the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana and listed…
• Tüke Borház Restaurant – Winery grill restaurant on the Mecsek hillside overlooking Pécs, pairing views with wines and walnut brandy made by the…

Itineraries

• Southern Hungary Historic Cities & Red Wine – A southern loop from the Art Nouveau architecture of Szeged to the Villány wine region and the World Heritage sites of…
• Hungary Grand Loop Self-Drive – A clockwise road trip around the country, connecting the capital, eastern wine regions, the Great Plain, historic south…