Pag & Novalja

A resort town in northern Pag, famous across Europe for its summer parties on Zrće Beach, on an island of moonlike limestone landscapes, ancient olive groves, Pag cheese and lace.

Pag is a long, narrow island in the northern Adriatic in Croatia, about 60 km long; the north belongs to Novalja in Lika-Senj County and the south to the town of Pag in Zadar County. Battered year-round by the bora wind blowing off the Velebit mountains, the east coast is nearly bare, a moonlike wasteland of white limestone, while the west coast is lined with coves, pine forests and sand-and-pebble beaches. Novalja is the resort hub of the north, where Zrće Beach's open-air clubs and music festivals draw young people from all over Europe in summer; for somewhere quieter, head to Caska, Straško beach or the thousand-year-old olive groves of Lun at the northern tip. In the south, Pag Old Town preserves its Renaissance grid of streets and is known for UNESCO-listed Pag lace, salt pans and Pag sheep's cheese. The best time to visit is June–September, with July and August the busiest and most expensive; in May–June and September the sea is already warm, crowds are thinner and prices lower, while in winter most hotels and clubs close. Getting there: from the Rijeka side, travel via the island of Krk or take the ferry from Prizna to Žigljen (about 15 minutes); from the Zadar side, drive onto the island over the Pag Bridge, with Zadar Airport about 1 hour 15 minutes from Novalja; in summer there's also a fast boat from Rijeka to Novalja. Buses on the island are sparse, so driving is recommended. Plan on 3–5 days: a day at Zrće Beach, a day in Pag Old Town and the salt pans, and a day at the Lun olive groves and the northern coves. During party season, watch your safety and belongings at night and never drink and drive; there's no shade on the east coast, so bring plenty of water and sun protection for outdoor activities.

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Itineraries