Nancy
The old capital of the Duchy of Lorraine, with the gilded gates of UNESCO-listed Place Stanislas and École de Nancy Art Nouveau architecture and glass throughout town; Metz is an hour to the north.
Nancy lies in the Meurthe-et-Moselle department of the Grand Est region in northeastern France. It is the historic capital of the Duchy of Lorraine, about 1.5 hours from Paris by high-speed train. In the 18th century Stanislas, the exiled King of Poland and Duke of Lorraine, built an ensemble of squares here—Place Stanislas, Place de la Carrière and Place d'Alliance—listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983. Around 1900, Émile Gallé, Louis Majorelle, the Daum brothers and others founded the "École de Nancy", making the city the centre of French Art Nouveau. There are three main areas to explore: first, the World Heritage squares, the Musée des Beaux-Arts and the Parc de la Pépinière, all easily linked on foot; second, the medieval old town to the north, where Grande Rue leads past the Palais des Ducs de Lorraine, the Église des Cordeliers and the Basilica of Saint-Epvre to the Porte de la Craffe; third, the Art Nouveau district southwest of the centre, where the highlights are the Musée de l'École de Nancy, the Villa Majorelle and the Brasserie l'Excelsior near the train station. For day trips, Metz, about 55 km north, has its cathedral known as the "Lantern of God" and the Centre Pompidou-Metz, about 40 minutes by train; to the southeast are the Basilica of Saint-Nicolas-de-Port and the Château de Lunéville, and to the west Toul Cathedral. The climate is temperate continental, with cold winters and mild summers. May–Sep is the best time to visit, when Place Stanislas hosts a nightly light and projection show; the Saint Nicholas festival in early December brings parades and a Christmas market. The TGV from Paris Gare de l'Est takes about 1.5 hours, as does the trip from Strasbourg. The city is compact—walking plus trams and buses is all you need. Allow 2 days, or 3 with a day trip to Metz. Local specialities include Nancy macarons, bergamot sweets and mirabelle plums.
Top sights
- Place Stanislas – One of Europe's most beautiful squares, ringed by gilded wrought-iron gates and fountains around the town hall. It is an 18th-century urban…
- Musée de l'École de Nancy – A museum devoted to the Nancy School of Art Nouveau, where Gallé glass, Majorelle furniture and complete period interiors are displayed tog…
- Villa Majorelle – A landmark of Art Nouveau architecture in Nancy and the home of furniture master Louis Majorelle. Fully restored, its stained glass, ironwo…
- Place de la Carrière – A long, narrow square reached after passing through the Arc Héré, with two rows of linden trees and symmetrical mansions leading to the Gov…
- Arc Héré – A triumphal arch linking Place Stanislas and Place de la Carrière, built to honor Louis XV, with a gilded statue group gleaming on top.
- Place d'Alliance – A quiet small square east of Place Stanislas, with a central obelisk fountain commemorating the Franco-Austrian alliance, part of the World…
- Musée des Beaux-Arts de Nancy – A fine arts museum on Place Stanislas, with European masterpieces and one of the world's leading collections of Daum glass.
- Palais des Ducs de Lorraine – Musée Lorrain – A Gothic-Renaissance ducal palace in the old town with an ornate gateway, housing the Musée Lorrain on the history of Lorraine.
- Église des Cordeliers – The burial church of the Dukes of Lorraine, with an octagonal ducal chapel and finely carved tomb sculptures; part of the Musée Lorrain.
- Parc de la Pépinière – A large city-center park next to the World Heritage squares, with a rose garden, a small zoo, a carousel and a Rodin statue of Claude Lorra…
- Porte de la Craffe – Nancy's oldest surviving city defense, a 14th-century twin-towered gate whose Lorraine cross has become a symbol of the city.
- Grande Rue (Old Town) – The main street of Nancy's medieval old town, lined with stone houses, small restaurants and antique shops, linking the Ducal Palace and th…
- Basilique Saint-Epvre – A towering neo-Gothic church in the old town, with an 87 m spire, a richly decorated interior of stained glass and organ, and a landmark of…
- Nancy Cathedral – An 18th-century Baroque-classical cathedral with a dignified twin-tower façade, its dome paintings and wrought-iron railings by renowned ma…
- Muséum-Aquarium de Nancy – A natural history museum and tropical aquarium in one, in the city centre, with dozens of tanks and animal specimen halls. A good choice fo…
- Marché Central de Nancy – A covered market where locals shop for groceries, with Lorraine cheese, charcuterie, quiche and mirabelle plum products all under one roof.
- Brasserie L'Excelsior – An Art Nouveau restaurant opened in 1911, with interior design by Majorelle and stained glass preserved intact, so you can admire it while…
- Jardin Botanique Jean-Marie Pelt – A large botanical garden on Nancy's southern outskirts, with about 12,000 plant species and a tropical greenhouse. It is one of France's ma…
- Église Notre-Dame-de-Bonsecours – The burial church of King Stanislas, with lavish Rococo interiors, often called the finest Baroque church in Lorraine.
- Nancy Thermal – A thermal spa centre reopened in 2023 after renovation, combining a historic Art Nouveau swimming hall with outdoor thermal pools.
- Basilique de Saint-Nicolas-de-Port – A flamboyant Gothic pilgrimage basilica southeast of Nancy, with twisted columns 28 metres tall. It is one of Lorraine's most spectacular c…
- Château de Lunéville – Known as “the Versailles of Lorraine,” the seat of the Dukes of Lorraine and the court of Stanislas, with a large garden and a château muse…
- Toul Cathedral – The flamboyant Gothic cathedral of the small town of Toul, west of Nancy. Its facade is richly carved, and its cloister is one of the large…
Where to eat
- Brasserie Excelsior – An Art Nouveau brasserie opened in 1911 and listed as a historic monument, famous for its seafood towers and seafood ch…
- La Maison dans le Parc – One-star Michelin restaurant in a historic mansion beside the Opera House, serving modern French cuisine with Japanese…
- À la Table du Bon Roi Stanislas – Themed restaurant recreating the dining table of Duke Stanislas, blending Lorraine, Polish and 18th-century French dish…
- Le Capu – Michelin-listed restaurant about 300 m from Place Stanislas, with bold décor and well-reviewed foie gras and cured salm…
- Les Pissenlits – Family-run bistro beside the Central Market, serving generous portions of traditional Lorraine home cooking, popular wi…
Itineraries
- Eastern France Rail Grand Route: Reims to Lyon – Connect the historic cities of Champagne, Lorraine, Alsace, and Burgundy by rail, from Paris to Lyon.