Isfahan

"Isfahan is half the world": World Heritage Imam Square and its mosques, Si-o-se-pol bridge and the Armenian quarter.

Isfahan sits on the Zayandeh River in central Iran. It is the capital of Isfahan Province and Iran's third-largest city. In the late 16th century, Shah Abbas I of the Safavid dynasty moved his capital here and built squares, mosques, palaces and tree-lined avenues on a grand scale, giving rise to the saying "Isfahan is half the world". The main sights are concentrated in three areas. First, the historic core around Imam Square, including the Imam Mosque, Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, Ali Qapu Palace and the Grand Bazaar, from where you can wander north all the way to the World Heritage Jameh Mosque. Second, Chaharbagh Avenue and the Zayandeh River, with Chehel Sotoun, Hasht Behesht and Safavid bridges such as Si-o-se-pol and Khaju Bridge. Third, the Armenian quarter of New Julfa south of the river, with Vank Cathedral and a street of cafés. West of the city are the Shaking Minarets and the Fire Temple, and about 100 km east lies the Varzaneh Desert. Mar–May and Sep–Nov are the best times to visit; summers are hot. The Zayandeh River has been dry most of the time in recent years, so whether there's water under the old bridges depends on upstream releases. Allow 3–4 days. From Tehran it's about 5–6 hours by train or bus, or you can fly. Foreigners generally pay higher admission prices than locals, and women must wear a headscarf in public. Before you go, check your government's travel advisories as well as visa and currency exchange rules.

Top sights

• Naqsh-e Jahan Square – A world-class square built under the Safavid dynasty, about 560 m long, with two mosques, a palace and the Grand Bazaar on its four sides…
• Shah Mosque (Imam Mosque) – The Safavid royal mosque at the south end of the square, its domes and portals covered in seven-colored tiles; clapping under the main dome…
• Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque – A small royal mosque on the east side of the square with no minarets; its cream-colored dome has exquisite tile patterns inside, and sunlig…
• Chehel Sotoun – A Safavid reception palace where twenty wooden columns reflected in the long pool appear to be forty, giving it the name “Forty Columns”; t…
• Si-o-se-pol – A Safavid bridge spanning the Zayandeh River, about 300 m long with 33 arches; once lit up at night, it is the most romantic spot in Isfaha…
• Khaju Bridge – A two-storey bridge and dam from the reign of Abbas II, with an octagonal pavilion at its center, finely painted tile on the arcades, and p…
• Holy Savior Cathedral (Vank) – The main cathedral of the Armenian quarter in New Julfa; its exterior has a Persian-style dome, while its interior is covered with gold and…
• Jameh Mosque of Isfahan – A World Heritage Site and one of Iran's oldest grand mosques, where architectural styles spanning more than eight centuries, from the Selju…
• Ali Qapu Palace – A six-story Safavid royal palace on the west side of the square; from the wooden-columned balcony you can overlook the entire square, and t…
• Grand Bazaar of Isfahan – An ancient vaulted market stretching from the north gate of Imam Square to the Jameh Mosque, where you can buy Persian carpets, copperware…
• Hasht Behesht Palace – A small Safavid palace in Nightingale Garden, its octagonal plan symbolizing the 'Eight Paradises', with well-preserved stalactite domes an…
• Chaharbagh School – A religious school built at the end of the Safavid dynasty, whose blue dome and tiled courtyard rival those of the Imam Mosque, yet it is q…
• Chaharbagh Abbasi Street – A tree-lined avenue planned in the Safavid era, linking the old city with the Si-o-se-pol Bridge; its middle section is now a pedestrian st…
• Joui Bridge – A small Safavid bridge between the Si-o-se-pol and Khaju bridges that was once reserved for the royal court; a water channel runs down the…
• Shahrestan Bridge – Isfahan's oldest bridge, whose foundations may date to the Sasanian era; the surviving structure was rebuilt in the Seljuk period, and its…
• New Julfa (Armenian Quarter) – A neighborhood settled by Armenians in the 17th century, with more than ten churches, lanes and cafés; it is Isfahan's most artsy district.
• Bethlehem Church – An Armenian church near Vank Cathedral, funded by a wealthy merchant; its interior murals rival the cathedral's in density and refinement…
• Ali Mosque & Minaret – An early Safavid mosque deep in the Grand Bazaar; the adjacent Seljuk minaret, about 48 meters tall, is one of the landmarks of the old tow…
• Hakim Mosque – A 17th-century mosque tucked into a bazaar alley, funded by a court physician; it has beautiful tiled portals, few visitors, and free admis…
• Ali Gholi Agha Hammam – An 18th-century traditional Persian public bathhouse, restored and turned into a museum, with wax figures recreating scenes of scrubbing, b…
• Isfahan Music Museum – A privately founded museum of traditional Iranian instruments with several hundred pieces from across the country; musicians often perform…
• Monar Jonban – A 14th-century Ilkhanid tomb where two small minarets above the portal sway in sympathy: shake one, and the other moves too.
• Atashgah of Isfahan – The ruins of a Sasanian-era Zoroastrian fire temple on a small hill west of the city; its mud-brick remains have survived for a millennium…
• Soffeh Mountain Park – An urban mountain park south of the city, reachable on foot or by cable car; the summit holds the Sasanian-founded Shahdiz Castle ruins and…
• Varzaneh Desert – Golden dunes about 100 km east of Isfahan, where you can ride camels, sandboard, and watch desert sunsets and starry skies; nearby are a sa…

Where to eat

• Shahrzad Restaurant – A legendary Isfahan restaurant opened in the 1960s, serving local dishes in a grand hall adorned with stained glass and…
• Beryani Azam (Masjed Seyed Street) – A century-old Beryani institution, highly recommended by both locals and travelers as a must-visit Isfahan eatery
• Haj Mahmoud Shefaat Beryani – A four-generation Beryani shop tucked deep inside the old bazaar, focusing on just one dish with frequent lunch queues
• Jarchi Bashi Restaurant – Dine inside a beautifully restored centuries-old bathhouse, famous for traditional dishes like sweet rice, jeweled rice…
• Naghsh-e Jahan Traditional Restaurant – A traditional restaurant right next to the Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, perfect for local dishes after exploring Naqsh-e Ja…