Trattoria da Maria

A century-old budget trattoria in the old town's alleys, featuring a handwritten daily menu and communal tables for authentic pesto pasta.

Located on Vico Testadoro and established in 1916, this is a legendary budget canteen among Genoese locals. The two small rooms feature red-and-white checkered tablecloths, and the handwritten menu changes daily based on the market. Common dishes include trenette with pesto, pansotti with walnut sauce, minestrone with pesto, stewed stockfish, and stuffed vegetables. No reservations accepted; table sharing is required, and wait times on weekdays can be 10-30 minutes. Cash and Italian cards only. Often closed for two to three weeks in August. About a 10-minute walk from Piazza De Ferrari.

Opening hours

Mon-Wed & Sat 12:00-15:00; Thu-Fri 12:00-15:00, 19:00-22:00; Closed Sun

Time-honored brand · Budget-friendly · Home cooking

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