Chouara Tannery

دار الدبغ شوارة

An open-air tannery that has kept its millennium-old methods, where honeycomb-like dye pits in vivid colors make Fes’s most striking scene.

The Chouara Tannery sits in the leather workers’ quarter in the northeast of the old city. It is believed to date back to the 11th century and is the largest and oldest of Fes’s three tanneries. Workers stand barefoot in round stone dye pits, first softening raw hides in a bath of pigeon droppings, lime, and water, then dyeing them with natural plant dyes, including poppy red, indigo, henna orange, mint green, and saffron yellow. Almost the entire process is done by hand. The tannery itself is not open to visitors. Tourists look down from the rooftop terraces of nearby leather shops, and shopkeepers often hand out a sprig of mint to hold against the smell. The visit is free, but you will usually be guided into a shop, so if you don’t buy anything, a tip of 10 to 20 dirhams is customary. Leather bags, babouche slippers, and leather jackets can be bargained over, and a good starting point is half the asking price. Getting to the tannery means passing through a maze of alleys. Follow the “Tannery” signs or ask locals for directions, and be wary of self-appointed guides who demand high fees after showing you the way.

Chouara Tannery

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