Fes

The medina of Fes, one of the world's largest car-free old towns: dye works, madrasas and the Al-Qarawiyyin University among 9,000 alleys, plus day trips to the imperial city of Meknes and the Roman ruins of Volubilis.

Fes lies in a river valley in inland northern Morocco, at the northern foot of the Middle Atlas. It is the oldest of Morocco's four imperial cities, founded in the 9th century. The city has three parts: the old medina, Fes el-Bali, is one of the world's largest car-free urban areas, with about 9,000 winding alleys, and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1981; Fes Jdid (New Fes), built by the Marinid dynasty in the 13th century, holds the Royal Palace and the Jewish quarter; and the Ville Nouvelle, laid out under French colonial rule, has the train station, hotels and restaurants.

Season: March–May and September–November are best, with temperatures of 15–25°C; July–August often tops 38°C, and December–February is cold and damp.

Where to go: ① The medina: Bab Bou Jeloud (Blue Gate), the Bou Inania and Attarine Madrasas, the Al-Qarawiyyin Mosque, the Chouara tanneries, the Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts and Crafts, and Place Seffarine (the coppersmiths' square); ② Fes Jdid: the Golden Gates of the Royal Palace, the Jewish quarter and the Jnan Sbil Gardens; ③ Hills outside the medina: the Marinid Tombs and the North and South Borj for panoramas and sunsets; ④ Day trips: to the west, the imperial city of Meknes (about 60 km), the Roman ruins of Volubilis and the holy town of Moulay Idriss; to the south, Ifrane and the Azrou cedar forest, home to Barbary macaques.

Getting there: Fes–Saïss Airport (FEZ) is served by European low-cost carriers; trains run direct from Casablanca, Rabat and Tangier, and the trip from Casablanca takes about 4 hours. We suggest 2–3 days, plus 1 extra day for excursions. Notes: it's very easy to get lost in the medina, so on your first day consider hiring a licensed official guide and turn down anyone who offers to lead you in the street; many shops accept cash only; staying in a riad in the medina is the best experience, but you'll have to carry your luggage on foot; during Ramadan many restaurants are closed in the daytime.

Top sights

• Fes el-Bali Medina – The world’s largest car-free medieval city, where nearly 10,000 lanes preserve markets, workshops, mosques, and madrasas.
• Chouara Tannery – An open-air tannery that has kept its millennium-old methods, where honeycomb-like dye pits in vivid colors make Fes’s most striking scene.
• University of al-Qarawiyyin – Founded in 859 and recognized by Guinness as the world’s oldest existing university still in operation, it is also one of North Africa’s mo…
• Bab Bou Jeloud – The most famous gate of the old city of Fes, blue on the outside and green on the inside, covered in mosaic tiles. It is the iconic entranc…
• Bou Inania Madrasa – A 14th-century Marinid madrasa whose cedar carvings, plaster stucco, and mosaic tiles represent the peak of Moroccan Islamic decorative art.
• Al-Attarine Madrasa – A small, exquisitely decorated madrasa beside the spice market, right next to the Qarawiyyin Mosque.
• Royal Palace of Fes (Dar al-Makhzen) – The main gate of the royal palace in New Fez, with seven gilded bronze doors, colorful tiles and cedar carvings. It is the most photographe…
• Mellah of Fes & Ibn Danan Synagogue – Morocco's earliest Jewish quarter, with old streets of wooden balconies and the 17th-century Ibn Danan Synagogue, right beside the royal pa…
• Marinid Tombs – The ruins of Marinid dynasty tombs on a hill north of the old city, the best spot for a panoramic view of Fez el-Bali and for watching the…
• Borj Nord – A 16th-century Saadian fortress on the hillside north of the old city, overlooking all of Fez el-Bali.
• Borj Sud – A Saadian fortress on the hill south of the old city, overlooking the old city and New Fez, with fewer visitors than the northern side.
• Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts – A former 18th-century caravanserai turned woodwork museum, where cedar carvings and a rooftop café overlook the old city.
• Dar Batha Museum – A museum in a late 19th-century palace featuring Fez ceramics and Islamic art, with an Andalusian-style garden.
• Jnan Sbil Gardens – A royal garden between the old city and New Fez with waterwheels, bamboo groves and fountains, a good place to rest after exploring the old…
• Zawiya of Moulay Idris II – The mausoleum shrine of Moulay Idriss II, founder of Fez, and one of the holiest religious sites in the old city.
• Place Seffarine – The Coppersmiths' Square at the heart of the old city, where the constant clang of hammered copper fills the air beside the Qarawiyyin Libr…
• Mosque of the Andalusians – An ancient 9th-century mosque on the east bank of the river, famous for its finely carved doorways and a landmark of the Andalusian quarter.
• Sahrij Madrasa – A 14th-century Marinid madrasa famous for its long rectangular pool and fine wood and plaster carvings, rarely crowded.
• Fes Jdid – The 'new city' built by the Marinid dynasty in the 13th century, with a royal palace, a Jewish quarter and wide main streets. It is more or…
• Ifrane – A European-style town in the Middle Atlas Mountains with red-roofed timber chalets and stone lion sculptures, often called the 'Switzerland…
• Cèdre Gouraud Forest – A primeval Atlas cedar forest near Azrou where you can get close to endangered wild Barbary macaques.

Where to eat

• The Ruined Garden – Dine in an open-air ruined garden next to Riad Idrissy, serving light bites at lunch and modern Moroccan cuisine in the…
• Nur – Helmed by Moroccan chef Najat Kaanache, offering a daily-changing tasting menu of about ten courses inspired by fresh i…
• Dar Roumana – A Franco-Moroccan fusion dinner served in a restored 19th-century riad, with only about five tables per night and a sea…
• Café Clock – A cultural café housed in a 250-year-old medina house, famous for its camel burger, featuring a rooftop terrace, live p…
• Chez Thami – A budget-friendly eatery near Bab Boujloud with just a few tables, specializing in meatball tagine and pastilla.

Itineraries

• Classic Imperial Cities & Sahara Loop – Head north from Casablanca to the Blue City and Fes, then cross the desert and gorges to Marrakech.
• Northern Morocco: Tangier, Blue City & Fes – Enter the Rif Mountains from the strait port city, then head south to Roman ruins and the Imperial City of Fes.
• Morocco Rail Journey: North to South – Skip the car rental and private drivers; connect Tangier to Marrakech via high-speed and standard trains
• Andalusia to the Sahara Crossing – Cross the sea from Seville via Tarifa, traveling through the Blue City, Fes, and the desert to Marrakech