Corfu

A lush green island in the Ionian Sea, with a Venetian-style World Heritage old town, Empress Sisi's Achilleion palace and the bays of Paleokastritsa.

Corfu (Kerkyra in Greek) lies in the Ionian Sea off northwest Greece, facing Albania across the water. It covers about 590 km² and takes around 2 hours to drive from north to south. Long ruled by Venice and later by the French and British, the island was never occupied by the Ottomans, so its old town is full of Venetian arcades, fortresses and an English-style cricket ground; it was inscribed as a World Heritage Site in 2007. The climate is Mediterranean but wetter than the Aegean islands, with lush vegetation and olive groves everywhere. The best season is May–Oct: May–Jun and Sep–Oct offer pleasant weather and reasonable prices, while Jul–Aug is the hottest and busiest. Easter brings the unique pot-throwing tradition and processions of the saint's relics; Nov–Mar is rainy and many resort hotels close. Key areas: Corfu Old Town and the Kanoni peninsula (old town, fortresses, museums, Mouse Island); the south, with the Achilleion and west-coast beaches such as Pelekas and Glyfada; the northwest, with Paleokastritsa, Angelokastro and Porto Timoni; the north coast, with Sidari's Canal d'Amour and Cape Drastis; and the northeast, with Kassiopi, Kalami and Mount Pantokrator. Getting there: Corfu Airport is right next to the old town, with many direct flights from Europe in summer, or connect via Athens (about 1 hour). Ferries also run from Italy and Igoumenitsa. The island has blue suburban buses and green intercity buses, but services are limited, so driving is most convenient – mountain roads are narrow and winding. Allow 4–6 days: 2 for the old town and 1–2 each for the west coast and the north. Tips: book cars and rooms early for Jul–Aug; the old town gets crowded on cruise-ship days; cover shoulders and knees in churches and monasteries.

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Where to eat