Bologna

Italy's "food capital" and home to Europe's oldest university, where 62 km of red porticoes link the Two Towers and ragù, with Parma ham and Ferrari country nearby.

Bologna is the capital of the Emilia-Romagna region in northern Italy, between Milan and Florence. It is about 35 minutes from Florence by high-speed train, about 1 hour from Milan and about 1.5 hours from Venice, making it a hub for northern Italian itineraries. The city is known by three nicknames: La Dotta (the learned, for the University of Bologna, founded in 1088 and regarded as the oldest university in the West), La Grassa (the fat, for its status as the home of ragù, mortadella and hand-made Tortellini) and La Rossa (the red, for its brick-red roofs and porticoes). The Old Town's porticoes (Portici), about 62 km in total, were inscribed as a World Heritage Site in 2021, and you can walk them in the rain without an umbrella.

The core sights lie within 1 km of Piazza Maggiore: the Two Towers, the Basilica of San Petronio, the Palazzo dell'Archiginnasio and the Quadrilatero old market can all be linked on foot and covered in a day. On the second day, you can hike up the 3.8 km San Luca portico to the sanctuary, or take a train or car to Modena (30 minutes, for balsamic vinegar and the Ferrari museum) or Parma (1 hour, for ham and cheese workshops). We suggest 2–3 days.

The best seasons are Apr–Jun and Sep–Oct; Jul–Aug is muggy, and many restaurants close for vacation in mid-August. Getting there: Bologna Centrale is a high-speed rail hub; Marconi Airport is linked to Bologna Centrale by the Marconi Express monorail (about 7 minutes). The Old Town is a restricted traffic zone (ZTL), so drivers should not enter, or they will be photographed automatically and fined. Note: the authentic local dish is Tagliatelle al ragù, and you will hardly find "Spaghetti Bolognese" on any menu.

Top sights

• Two Towers (Asinelli & Garisenda) – A city landmark of Bologna: two 12th-century family towers, one tall and one leaning, remnants of the medieval 'City of a Hundred Towers.'
• Piazza Maggiore & Fountain of Neptune – Bologna's city living room, surrounded by the cathedral, town hall and the Palazzo del Podestà, with a 16th-century bronze of Neptune by Gi…
• Archiginnasio of Bologna – The former main building of the University of Bologna, its walls covered with students' coats of arms, and a wooden anatomy theatre that is…
• Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca – A Baroque sanctuary on the hilltop southwest of the city, linked to town by one of the world's longest porticoes, about 3.8 km long with 66…
• Quadrilatero – A medieval market district east of Piazza Maggiore, where narrow lanes are packed with butcher shops, cheese stores, fresh pasta workshops…
• Basilica of San Petronio – One of the largest churches in the world, with an unfinished facade and one of the longest meridian sundials in existence inside.
• Santo Stefano (Seven Churches) – A group of religious buildings made up of several small churches from different periods, known as the Seven Churches, with a quiet and anci…
• Basilica of San Domenico – The resting place of St Dominic, founder of the Dominican Order, whose tomb has three small statues carved by a young Michelangelo.
• Pinacoteca Nazionale di Bologna – A national gallery in the university district that holds Raphael's Ecstasy of Saint Cecilia and masterpieces of the Bolognese School.
• Palazzo d'Accursio – The town hall on the west side of Piazza Maggiore, with a civic art collection and the Accursio clock tower, which you can climb.
• Biblioteca Salaborsa – A public library in the town hall, converted from a former stock exchange, where glass floor panels reveal Roman remains below.
• Finestrella di Via Piella – A small wooden window on a wall through which you can see the hidden Moline Canal, nicknamed Little Venice.
• San Giacomo Maggiore – An Augustinian church in the university district, with highlights including the Bentivoglio family chapel and frescoes in the Oratory of Sa…
• Santa Maria della Vita – A Baroque church beside the Quadrilatero market, housing Niccolò dell'Arca's terracotta group Lamentation over the Dead Christ.
• Museo Civico Archeologico di Bologna – An archaeological museum beside the Archiginnasio Palace, known for Etruscan artefacts and one of Italy's major Egyptian collections.
• MAMbo – Museo d'Arte Moderna di Bologna – A modern and contemporary art museum in a former municipal bakery, which also has a special gallery for the painter Giorgio Morandi.
• Giardini Margherita – The largest park outside the old city's south gate, where lakeside lawns and summer night bars are popular with locals.
• Palazzo Pepoli – Museum of the History of Bologna – An interactive museum of city history in a medieval palace, covering the story of Bologna from the Etruscans to the present day.
• Basilica of San Francesco – One of Italy's earliest French-style Gothic churches, with a colonnaded tomb of medieval legal scholars in its courtyard.
• Bologna Cathedral (San Pietro) – Bologna's cathedral, with a vast Baroque interior and a Romanesque bell tower that can be climbed by appointment.
• Palazzo Poggi Museum – The palace housing Bologna University's headquarters, displaying 18th-century scientific collections of anatomical wax figures, maps and na…
• Prendiparte Tower – The second-tallest medieval tower in Bologna, where you can climb to the top for views. It is an alternative viewpoint while the Two Towers…
• Ducati Museum & Factory – The Ducati headquarters on the western outskirts of Bologna, with a museum of historic racing bikes and factory tours by reservation.
• Automobili Lamborghini Museum (MUDETEC) – A brand museum inside the Lamborghini headquarters, showing classic models such as the Miura and Countach, along with limited-edition super…
• Castello Estense, Ferrara – The heart of Renaissance Ferrara, an Este family castle surrounded by a moat. The old city is a World Heritage Site.
• Ravenna Early Christian Mosaics (San Vitale) – The last capital of the Western Roman Empire, where eight early Christian mosaic buildings, including San Vitale, are World Heritage Sites.
• Dozza – A medieval village on a hill where the house walls are covered with contemporary murals, and the castle contains a regional wine bar.

Where to eat

• Trattoria di Via Serra – A Michelin Bib Gourmand trattoria in the Bolognina district north of the train station, renowned for its tortellini in…
• Sfoglia Rina – A handmade pasta brand dating back to 1963; the old town branch serves as both a fresh pasta shop and a casual eatery…
• Osteria dell'Orsa – A budget-friendly historic tavern in the university district opened in 1979, featuring a lively atmosphere with communa…
• All'Osteria Bottega – A Michelin-selected restaurant in the old town, famous for its Culatello di Zibello, premium cold cuts, and traditional…
• Salumeria Simoni – A traditional deli in the Quadrilatero district, where freshly sliced mortadella sandwiches and cold cut platters are p…
• Osteria Bartolini – A Michelin Bib Gourmand seafood restaurant serving Romagna fisherman-style dishes under the vaults of an old palace and…

Itineraries

• Bologna to Parma Food Valley – Travel along the Via Emilia by train to feast through Bologna, Modena, and Parma, with a side trip to the Ferrari Museu…
• Florence Food and Wine: Chianti and Bologna in – Markets and bistecca, Chianti winery tastings, then a train to Bologna for tagliatelle al ragù, with unhurried meals al…