Beppu

Beppu, Japan's top hot-spring producer, and Yufuin, the artsy onsen town: Hell tours, sand baths and misty mornings on Lake Kinrin make this Kyushu's most relaxing soaking combination.

Beppu sits on Beppu Bay in Oita Prefecture in northeastern Kyushu, backed by Mt. Tsurumi and Mt. Yufu. It is Japan's No. 1 hot-spring city for both flow (about 80,000 liters per minute) and number of sources (about 2,200). The city is divided into eight onsen areas known as the "Beppu Hatto", from Beppu Onsen within walking distance of the station, to steamy Kannawa Onsen on the north side of town, Myoban Onsen in the hills and Kamegawa Onsen by the sea, with white plumes of steam rising everywhere. Yufuin (Yufuin Onsen) lies about 25 km west of Beppu in a basin at the foot of Mt. Yufu. It is known for its artistic atmosphere and refined ryokan, and its signatures are Lake Kinrin, Yunotsubo Street and the basin mist on autumn and winter mornings. The two are about 50 minutes apart by bus, making them Kyushu's classic soaking pair. What to do: in Beppu, the main draws are the "Hell Tour" of Kannawa (seven hot ponds in different colors), the seaside sand bath, hell-steamed cooking and public baths such as Takegawara Onsen; in town there are also Beppu Tower, Takasakiyama Natural Zoo and Oita Marine Palace Aquarium. Yufuin is for strolling: it is about 1.5 km from the station along Yunotsubo Street to Lake Kinrin, passing souvenir shops, dessert shops and art museums, then you stay at a ryokan for an evening soak and a kaiseki dinner. Best seasons: November to March is the most comfortable for soaking, with autumn leaves in mid to late November in Yufuin and Beppu and the morning mist in Yufuin from December to February (most likely on cold, clear mornings) being the most iconic; cherry blossoms in early April (Beppu Park, Yufuin); summers are hot and humid, though Mt. Yufu and the highlands are cool, and August brings the Beppu Hi no Umi (Sea of Fire) Festival. Getting there: from Oita Airport, Beppu is about 45–50 minutes by bus and Yufuin about 55 minutes. From Hakata Station in Fukuoka, the limited express "Yufuin no Mori" takes about 2 hours 10 minutes to Yufuin (a popular train; reserve seats ahead), and the JR limited express "Sonic" takes about 2 hours to Beppu. Cheaper express buses also run directly from Fukuoka Tenjin to both towns (about 2 hours). City buses in Beppu cover the main sights, and there is a "My Beppu Free" day pass; taxis and rental bicycles are available in front of Yufuin Station. Suggested length: 2 days and 1 night (a day of Beppu's Hells plus a night in Yufuin) is the most common; with 3 days you can add Takasakiyama, Oita or Aso. Tips: the Hells are hot ponds for viewing only and not for bathing. Bring your own towel for sand baths and public baths (they can be purchased). Yufuin ryokan often need to be booked months ahead, and popular ones (Kamenoi Besso, Tamanoyu, Muryoto) are full year-round. Yufuin is packed with day-trippers, but shops close at 18:00 and the streets go quiet, so staying a night lets you enjoy the morning. Most Japanese onsen do not admit people with tattoos (some ryokan offer cover stickers or private baths).

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