Xiamen

The "Garden City on the Sea," with Gulangyu's international architecture, Xiamen University and Zengcuoan, plus southern Fujian snacks and Nanputuo Temple, a artsy, fresh seaside getaway.

Xiamen lies on the southeast coast of Fujian Province, across the strait from Taiwan. The main urban area is on Xiamen Island (Siming and Huli districts), with four districts off the island: Jimei, Haicang, Tong'an and Xiang'an. It has a maritime subtropical climate that is mild year-round, and the best time to visit is October to April, when it is clear, dry and not muggy. June–September is hot and rainy with a risk of typhoons, so check weather warnings before you travel. The sights fall into four rough areas. First, Gulangyu (a World Heritage Site; boats leave from the Dongdu Cruise Terminal, and in peak season you should book tickets in advance with your real name through the "Gulangyu Ferry" WeChat account). Second, the southern section of Huandao Road, from Xiamen University to Nanputuo Temple, Shapowei and Zengcuoan, the densest strip of artsy photo spots, where you can rent bikes and ride along the coast. Third, Zhongshan Road pedestrian street and the old town, with arcaded buildings, southern Fujian snacks and the night view of Lujiang. Fourth, the Jimei school village off the island, with its Tan Kah Kee–style architecture. For transport, Xiamen Gaoqi Airport is on the island, about 30 minutes by taxi to Zhongshan Road. Xiamen North Station (off the island) and Xiamen Station (on the island) both have high-speed trains, and Metro Lines 1, 2 and 3 cover the airport, the railway stations, Jimei and Zhongshan Road. We suggest 2–3 days. Day 1: all day on Gulangyu. Day 2: Xiamen University (reserve in advance via the "U Xiamen University" WeChat account; weekday quotas are limited), Nanputuo, Shapowei and Zengcuoan. Day 3: Zhongshan Road and Jimei, or an extension to Quanzhou's old city and the Nanjing tulou. Tips: motor vehicles are banned on Gulangyu and there are many slopes, so wear comfortable shoes. Reservation slots for Xiamen University are tight and often can't be had on holidays, so you might consider taking photos from outside near Baicheng Beach. Satay noodles, oyster omelets, earthworm jelly and peanut soup are must-try southern Fujian snacks, and Bashi (the Eighth Market) is where locals go for seafood and snacks.

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