Wellington

New Zealand's capital and coffee capital: Te Papa museum, Weta Workshop and the cable car summit, a small but refined city linking the ferries between the North and South Islands.

Wellington is the capital of New Zealand, built around a natural harbor on Cook Strait at the southern tip of the North Island. It has a population of about 210,000 (420,000 in the metropolitan area), is the southernmost capital in the world, and was called the "coolest little capital in the world" by Lonely Planet. The city is squeezed between steep hills and the harbor, its center is compact enough to explore on foot, colorful wooden houses climb the hillsides, and constant wind earned it the nickname "Windy Wellington." It is New Zealand's cultural and coffee capital: it has one of the highest numbers of cafés per capita in the world, is one of the birthplaces of the flat white, and is home to the film empire of Lord of the Rings director Peter Jackson (Weta Workshop, "Wellywood" in Miramar).

Where to go: first, the waterfront and city center (Te Papa museum, the Queens Wharf waterfront walk, the Lambton Quay shopping district, the Beehive parliament building and the Old Government Buildings, and the cable car and Botanic Garden); second, Cuba Street and Courtenay Place, with their restaurants, bars and independent shops; third, the Mount Victoria lookout to the east, Oriental Bay beach and Weta Workshop on the Miramar Peninsula; fourth, the Zealandia ecosanctuary in a valley to the west. On weekends you can go to the south coast to see seals, take a ferry to Matiu/Somes Island, or head north to the Martinborough wineries in the Wairarapa.

The climate is maritime. December–March is summer at 17–22°C with long daylight, the best season. April–May is a stable, less windy autumn, often with "the most beautiful days in Wellington." June–August is winter at 6–12°C, rainy and windy. It is windy all year, especially in spring.

Getting there: Wellington Airport (WLG) is 8 km from the city; the AX airport bus takes about 30 minutes, and a taxi costs about NZ$40. There are international flights from Sydney, Melbourne and Fiji; from China you need to transfer via Auckland. Interislander and Bluebridge ferries cross Cook Strait to Picton on the South Island in about 3.5 hours (vehicles can be taken, and it can be bumpy in strong winds), making Wellington the hub for road trips linking the two islands. The Northern Explorer long-distance train to Auckland takes 11 hours. City buses (Metlink) use a Snapper card or credit card, and the city center is easy to walk. Chinese citizens need a New Zealand visitor visa (or an NZeTA with an Australian visa).

Recommended stay: 2–3 days.

Notes: always have a windproof jacket, and rain gear is better than an umbrella (umbrellas get blown inside out). There are many slopes, so wear comfortable shoes. Some shops are closed on Sunday. Museums are free but special exhibitions charge admission. Ferries are canceled in storms, so leave slack in your itinerary.

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