Toliara & Ifaty

The end of the RN7: Ifaty's coral reefs and spiny-forest baobabs, with boat trips south to Anakao and Nosy Ve.

Toliara (formerly Tuléar) is a port city in southwestern Madagascar and the end point of the famous National Route 7 (RN7). Offshore in the Mozambique Channel lies one of the world's larger coral reef systems, the Great Reef of Toliara. To the north are the white-sand fishing villages around Ifaty and Mangily; to the south, across the Onilahy River mouth, are St Augustine's Bay, Anakao and Nosy Ve. The climate is hot and dry: the April–November dry season is the best time to visit, and from July to September humpback whales can be seen close to shore; December–March is the rainy season, with occasional cyclones. Key areas: the city itself (markets, the seafront boulevard, the Antsokay Arboretum and "Table Mountain"); the northern route to Ifaty/Mangily (about 25 km, with the spiny-forest baobab reserve, the tortoise village, snorkeling and diving); and the southern route to Anakao (about 1 hour by speedboat, for Nosy Ve and Nosy Satrana, with an optional extension to Tsimanampetsotsa National Park). Getting there: fly from Antananarivo to Toliara in about 1.5 hours, or drive the RN7 over 2–3 days (via Isalo). In town, cycle rickshaws (pousse-pousse) and tuk-tuks are the main way to get around; Ifaty is reached on the paved RN9, while Anakao requires a speedboat. Allow 4–6 days: 1 in the city, 2 in Ifaty and 2 in Anakao. Tips: avoid walking around town at night; sea trips depend on wind and waves, and afternoons are windier; most places accept only cash in ariary; the spiny-forest reserves are scorching at midday, so go early in the morning.

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