Tainan
Taiwan's oldest prefectural city, known for Chihkan Tower, Anping Fort and temple-lined alleys, and celebrated as a food capital for beef soup, danzai noodles and shrimp rolls.
Tainan sits on the Chianan Plain in southwestern Taiwan, China, and is the island's earliest-developed city. In 1624 the Dutch built Fort Zeelandia in Anping. In 1662 Koxinga (Zheng Chenggong) drove out the Dutch and made the city his capital. Under the Qing dynasty it became the seat of Taiwan Prefecture, and it remained the island's top administrative city until 1887, which is why it is nicknamed the “Prefectural City.” Today the population is about 1.86 million.
Where to go: The core is the historic Central-West district. Chihkan Tower, the Confucius Temple, Grand Matsu Temple, Sacrificial Martial Temple, Lin Department Store, and the food lanes of Shennong Street, Guohua Street and Zhengxing Street are all within walking distance, and the city has the highest density of temples in Taiwan, China. West of the center, Anping District is the area of Dutch and Qing history, with Anping Fort, Anping Tree House, Tait & Co. Merchant House and Anping Old Street. It is a good place to watch the sunset over the harbor. In the north, Annan District has the Sicao Green Tunnel and the mangrove wetlands of Taijiang Park. On the outskirts, Chimei Museum (a Western-style palace with a European art collection), Yanshui (famous for its Lantern Festival firecracker battle), the Guanziling mud hot springs and the Qigu salt mountains make good extensions.
Food is the heart of Tainan. Its specialties include morning beef soup, danzai noodles, shrimp rolls, bowl cake, oyster omelets, coffin toast, eel spaghetti, shrimp meatballs and winter melon tea. Almost every old shop has over half a century of history, and prices are low.
Climate: October to March is cool, dry and the most comfortable season, with daytime highs above 20°C even in winter. April to September is hot and rainy, with plum rains in May and June and typhoons from July to September.
Getting there: From Taipei, the high-speed rail takes about 1 hour 45 minutes to Tainan Station, located in the suburban Guiren district. From there, the Shalun Line of Taiwan Railway takes about 25 minutes to the downtown Tainan Railway Station. From Kaohsiung, Taiwan Railway takes about 30 to 40 minutes. The city has no metro. Get around by bus, taxi, YouBike shared bikes or on foot. Old-town sights are mostly within 1 to 2 km of each other. To reach Anping, take bus No. 2 or 19 for about 25 minutes, or rent a scooter.
Suggested stay: 2 to 3 days.
Tips: Beef soup shops open at 5 to 6 a.m. and close once they sell out, so go early if you want it. Many old shops close on Mondays or Tuesdays. Summer afternoons bring thunderstorms, and you should dress appropriately for temple visits. The streets are narrow, so watch for pedestrians when cycling.
Top sights
- Chihkan Tower (Fort Provintia) – The site of Fort Provintia, built by the Dutch in 1653. Under the Qing, a Sea God Temple and Wenchang Pavilion were built on top of it, mak…
- Anping Fort (Fort Zeelandia) – The ruins of Fort Zeelandia, built by the Dutch in 1624 and the first Western-style castle in Taiwan. The ancient walls, watchtower and Anp…
- Anping Tree House – A warehouse ruin completely overtaken by century-old banyan aerial roots, with a raised walkway winding among the roots and red brick; dubb…
- Tainan Confucius Temple – Built in 1665 by Zheng Jing, son of Koxinga, this “First School in Taiwan” is the first Confucius temple in Taiwan, China. Its red walls, o…
- Guohua Street – Tainan's densest street for snacks: bowl cakes, spring rolls, shrimp meatballs and queue-worthy favourites around Yongle Market, the main b…
- Chimei Museum – A private museum in a white Greek-style palace with an Apollo Fountain, housing Western paintings, weapons, violins and taxidermy; Tainan's…
- Shennong Street – A roughly 100-meter old street left from the Qing-era Five Harbors period, where Fujian-style shophouses converted into bars, studios and c…
- Sicao Green Tunnel – A green tunnel formed by mangroves meeting above a waterway, reached by bamboo raft for about 30 minutes, with reflections like a mirror th…
- Hayashi Department Store – Taiwan's second department store, opened in 1932; Tainan's first elevator and rooftop shrine have survived, and the building is now a landm…
- Grand Mazu Temple – A Mazu temple converted from the mansion of a Ming prince, the first government-built Mazu temple in Taiwan, right beside Chihkan Tower.
- Sacrificial Rites Martial Temple – Taiwan's first Guandi temple to receive official sacrifices, whose entire vermilion gable wall is the most classic photo spot in the old ci…
- Koxinga Shrine – A shrine honoring Koxinga, requested for construction by Shen Baozhen in the Qing period, with a Koxinga relics museum beside it, a startin…
- Museum of Taiwan Literature – A literature museum housed in the former Tainan Prefectural Office of the Japanese occupation period; the building itself is a designated h…
- Tainan Art Museum – The white pentagonal shard-like roof of Building Two was designed by Shigeru Ban, while Building One was converted from a police station of…
- Blueprint Culture & Creative Park – A creative park converted from former judicial staff dormitories, where a huge blueprint-style mural, small shops and art installations mak…
- Zhengxing Street – An old street gathering young shop owners, known for its ice desserts, sweets and quirky shops, plus its mascot Zhengxing Cat, intersecting…
- Anping Old Street – Known as Taiwan's first street, Yanping Street is lined with shrimp cakes, candied fruit, tofu pudding and sword-lion souvenirs, right next…
- Eternal Golden Castle – A western-style bastion fort built in 1876 under Shen Baozhen, with an intact moat and red-brick gate, and a designated historic site.
- Anping Kaitai Tianhou Temple – An old temple where a Mazu statue was welcomed from Meizhou during the Ming-Zheng period, considered one of Taiwan's earliest Mazu temples…
- Qigu Salt Mountain – Twenty-plus-meter white salt mountains left from a closed salt field; visitors can climb to the top to look out over the salt pans, with th…
- Jingzaijiao Tile-paved Salt Fields – Taiwan's oldest surviving tile-paved salt fields, where broken tiles pave the pans that reflect the sunset, one of Tainan's most beautiful…
- Museum of Taiwan History – Taiwan's largest history museum, whose permanent exhibition runs from the Indigenous era to the present; the building sits in a wetland par…
- Ten Drum Rende Sugar Refinery Culture Park – A creative park converted from a closed sugar mill with a drumming theme, featuring performances by the Ten Drum percussion troupe, drum ex…
- Wushantou Reservoir – A reservoir overseen by Japanese engineer Yoichi Hatta, with a shoreline shaped like coral that earned it the name Coral Pond, still irriga…
- Guanziling Hot Spring – A rare mud hot spring in Taiwan with grayish-black waters rich in minerals; nearby are the Water and Fire of the Same Source wonder and a r…
- Tainan Garden Night Market – Tainan's largest night market, open only on Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays, with over 400 stalls offering everything from snacks to game…
- Qigu Black-faced Spoonbill Reserve – More than half of the world's black-faced spoonbills winter here. The reserve has bird-watching pavilions with telescopes and is part of Ta…
- Nankunshen Daitian Temple – The head temple of Taiwan's Wangye (Royal Lord) faith. The temple complex is grand, with the Chinese-style garden Dakun Garden behind it, a…
- Tainan Judicial Museum – The former Tainan District Court, completed in 1912, with an ornate Baroque dome and colonnades. It is now the Judicial Museum, and admissi…
- Orthodox Luermen Shengmu Temple – A large Mazu temple built near Luermen, the landing site of Koxinga. Its palatial complex is vast, and it is said to be one of the largest…
Where to eat
- A-Mei Restaurant – A legendary Taiwanese restaurant in Tainan, famous for its charcoal-simmered clay pot duck and red crab sticky rice, co…
- Hsi Lo Tien Beef Soup – A quintessential Tainan breakfast spot, serving freshly scalded beef soup with free minced pork rice, drawing crowds be…
- Xiao Gong Yuan Danzai Noodles – A 70-year-old noodle shop next to the Ximen Roundabout, serving classic, affordable Danzai noodles prepared on low stoo…
- A-Hsing Milkfish – A classic milkfish spot favored by locals, famous for its pan-fried milkfish belly paired with lard and garlic rice, no…
- Futai Third Generation – A great place to experience Tainan's unique "rice table" culture, offering self-selected side dishes paired with minced…
- Xian Zheng Shrimp Bawan – A Bib Gourmand-listed steamed bawan specialist serving springy skins and firm fillings made with Xuejia shrimp and fres…
Itineraries
- Classic Taiwan Rail Loop – Connect Taipei, Jiufen, Hualien, Taitung, Kaohsiung, Tainan, and Sun Moon Lake using TRA and THSR trains.
- In-Depth Taiwan Island Self-Drive Loop – Drive clockwise around the island, connecting the North Coast, Suhua, East Rift Valley, Hengchun Peninsula, and Alishan.
- Tainan, Kaohsiung, Xiaoliuqiu and Kenting – Heading south: Tainan's old-city sites, Kaohsiung's harbor-city creative scene, a turtle-watching island and the Kentin…