Tabarka & Aïn Draham

A coral-coast town in northwestern Tunisia, with a Genoese fort and needle-like rock formations by the sea, backed by the cork oak forests of Ain Draham and the Chemtou marble quarries to the south.

Tabarka lies in the northwestern corner of Tunisia's Jendouba Governorate on the Mediterranean coast, just over 10 km from the Algerian border, with a population of about 20,000. Known in antiquity as Thabraca, it became a trading base for Genoese merchants in the red coral trade from the 16th century, and the Genoese Fort still stands on the headland. The coastline is called the Coral Coast, with green hills running right down to the sea, a landscape very different from the deserts and beaches of eastern Tunisia. About 25 km south is the mountain town of Ain Draham, at 800 m above sea level, surrounded by one of North Africa's largest cork oak forests.

Highlights: explore the Genoese Fort in Tabarka, watch the sunset over the needle-shaped rocks, and enjoy fresh seafood at the harbor. In summer, swim and dive to see red coral, and catch the jazz festival in July. Head into the hills to hike in Ain Draham and the forests around the Beni M'Tir reservoir, and soak in the Bourguiba hot springs. About an hour south, you can visit the Chemtou marble quarry site and museum, and stop by the underground Roman villas at Bulla Regia.

Getting there: about 3 hours' drive from Tunis, by long-distance bus or shared taxi (louage). Tabarka has an international airport, mainly with seasonal flights. The best time for the beach is June to September; spring and autumn are better for forest hikes and visiting ruins. Winters are rainy, and the mountains occasionally see snow. Plan 2-3 days. Note: carry your passport in the border mountains and follow checkpoint requirements, and avoid driving at night, as mountain roads are winding.

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