Sêrtar

The hillsides of red cabins and the mandala at Larung Five Sciences Buddhist Academy: a stunning place of Tibetan Buddhist practice and western Sichuan's most striking photography destination.

Sêrtar County belongs to Garze Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, Sichuan, in the northern part of the western Sichuan plateau at the border of Sichuan and Qinghai. The county seat sits at about 3,900 m, one of the highest county seats in the prefecture. The heart of the destination is Larung Valley, about 20 km east of the county seat, home to the world's largest Tibetan Buddhist academy, Larung Gar Five Sciences Buddhist Academy. Tens of thousands of crimson monastic dwellings spread tier upon tier across the valley, and the mandala on the hilltop and the sea of lights that comes on after dusk make for the most stunning scene in western Sichuan. Besides the academy, the area around the county seat also has Dongga Monastery, Jinma Grassland and Nianlong Monastery, but most visitors come for the academy alone. The best season is May–October, with September–October bringing clear weather and transparent air for the clearest night views and stars; June–August has green grassland but frequent afternoon rain; November to April is bitterly cold with snow and icy roads, and travel is not recommended. Getting there: from Chengdu, self-drive or charter a car via Barkam (Maerkang) and Wengda, about 600 km and 10–12 hours, usually with an overnight stop in Barkam or Guanyinqiao; you can also approach via Garze and Luhuo (along G317), linking with Xinlong and Daofu in a "Northwest Sichuan Loop." Chengdu's Chadianzi and Xinnanmen stations have coaches to Sêrtar (about 13 hours). Suggested time: 1–2 days in Sêrtar itself, at least 4 days including travel. Notes: at nearly 4,000 m, this is the destination with the highest risk of altitude sickness on western Sichuan routes, so it is best to acclimatize for 1–2 nights at a lower altitude first and bring oxygen canisters and common medicines. The academy's policies for outside visitors change often and may restrict entry, restrict lodging or ban drones, so check the latest information before you go. Entering the academy requires real-name registration, and once inside you ride the scenic bus, as tourist vehicles are not allowed in. Respect the practice of monks and nuns: photography is forbidden inside halls, and do not photograph monastics up close. Accommodation in the county seat is basic, and you should book ahead in peak season. Nighttime temperatures can drop below 5°C even in summer.

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