Şanlıurfa
The “City of Prophets”, home to the World Heritage site of Göbekli Tepe, which rewrote the history of human civilisation, plus Abraham's sacred fish pools and the beehive houses of Harran.
Şanlıurfa (Urfa for short) lies in southeastern Turkey near the Syrian border. Known in antiquity as Edessa, this ancient city of northern Mesopotamia is called the “City of Prophets”: legend says Abraham was born here, and Job is also said to have lived here. In recent years, Neolithic sites of the Taş Tepeler (“Stone Hills”) such as Göbekli Tepe and Karahan Tepe have astonished archaeologists, making it a destination for exploring the origins of human civilisation. The main sightseeing area is the old town centred on the sacred fish pools (Balıklıgöl), surrounded by the Cave of Abraham's Birth, the Rizvaniye Mosque, the citadel, the old bazaar and Gümrük Han; to the north, the Archaeology Museum and the Haleplibahçe Mosaic Museum share one complex. Beyond the city there are two classic routes: Göbekli Tepe, about 18 km northeast; and, about 45 km south, the beehive houses and ancient city of Harran, which can be extended to Han el Ba'rur caravanserai, Bazda Caves, the ancient city of Şuayb, Soğmatar and Karahan Tepe. The best seasons are Apr–May and Oct–Nov; in Jul–Aug daytime temperatures often exceed 40°C. Getting there: GAP Airport has flights to and from Istanbul and Ankara, and long-distance buses connect to Gaziantep and Mardin; public transport to sights outside the city is limited, so hire a car or join a tour. Allow 2–3 days. This is a conservative religious city, so dress appropriately when visiting mosques. In the evening, you can join a traditional “sıra gecesi” musical gathering and taste Urfa kebab and çiğ köfte.
Top sights
- Göbekli Tepe – A Neolithic temple site about 11,600 years old, predating Stonehenge by roughly six thousand years. It has rewritten the history of human c…
- Balıklıgöl (Pools of Abraham) – A sacred pool said to be where Abraham was thrown into a fire, which turned to water while the firewood became carp. The pool is full of sa…
- Şanlıurfa Archaeology Museum – One of Turkey's largest archaeology museums, home to 'Urfa Man', the oldest known life-size human sculpture in the world.
- Harran Beehive Houses – The ancient city of Harran, about 45 kilometres south of the city, is home to clusters of conical mud-brick 'beehive houses' that have been…
- Karahan Tepe – The most spectacular of the newly discovered 'stone mound' sites, with carved rock chambers containing giant human-head sculptures and phal…
- Haleplibahçe Mosaic Museum – A museum built over the site of a Roman villa, displaying fine mosaics including scenes of the Amazon queen's hunt and the life of Achilles.
- Şanlıurfa Castle – An ancient fortress on the hill behind Balıklıgöl, with two Corinthian columns known as Nimrod's Throne overlooking the city.
- Great Mosque of Harran – One of the oldest mosque ruins in Anatolia, with a surviving square minaret and the remains of an early Islamic centre of learning.
- Harran Castle – A medieval castle at the southeastern corner of the ancient city of Harran, believed to stand on the site of a temple to the Mesopotamian m…
- Covered Bazaar & Gümrük Hanı – A 16th-century covered bazaar and courtyard inn, packed with shops selling spices, chili flakes, copperware and handwoven textiles. Tea in…
- Mevlid-i Halil Mosque – Said to be the cave where the Prophet Abraham was born, this is an important Islamic pilgrimage site with separate entrances for men and wo…
- Rızvaniye Mosque – An Ottoman-era mosque on the northern shore of Balıklıgöl, whose long arcades are reflected in the pool, the most photogenic view of the po…
- Great Mosque of Urfa – A great mosque from the Zengid period of the 12th century, built on the site of a Byzantine church and distinguished by its unusual octagon…
- Kızılkoyun Necropolis – A necropolis of rock-cut tombs on the hillside west of the old town, where the family tombs of Roman-era Edessans bear inscriptions and rel…
- Hz. Eyyüp Sabır Makamı – Said to be the cave where the Prophet Job (Ayyub in Islam) endured illness for seven years and was healed after drinking from the nearby ho…
- Fırfırlı Mosque – Originally a 19th-century Armenian Church of the Twelve Apostles, later converted into a mosque. Its stone façade and arched windows retain…
- Sayburç – A relief discovered beneath a modern village house, dating to about 11,000 years ago, showing a rare narrative scene of human figures facin…
- Han el Ba'rur Caravanserai – A 13th-century Ayyubid caravanserai ruin on the plain east of Harran, once a stop on the Silk Road.
- Şuayb City – A rock-cut ancient town traditionally associated with the Prophet Shu'ayb (Jethro), where underground dwellings and tombs intertwine with a…
- Soğmatar – An ancient centre of Sabian planetary worship, with temple ruins and rock carvings dedicated to the sun, moon and planets scattered around…
- Bazda Caves – Vast man-made caverns quarried by ancient people, with pillar-supported halls believed to be linked to the construction of Harran.
- Atatürk Dam – Turkey's largest dam on the Euphrates, the centrepiece of southeastern Anatolia's development, which created a vast artificial lake.
Where to eat
- Cevahir Han – An old caravanserai restaurant next to Samsat Square, serving traditional Urfa dishes, with a terrace where you can wat…
- Çardaklı Köşk – An old mansion restaurant opposite the Pool of Sacred Fish and the Castle, famous for its unique design and sıra gecesi…
- Sevgi Ciğer Salonu – A specialized liver kebab restaurant recommended by Vedat Milor, using veal liver instead of lamb liver, open from brea…
- Altın Lokantası – A popular local canteen located inside the wholesale fruit and vegetable market, famous for its Urfa lahmacun, eggplant…
- Çulcuoğlu Baklava & Restaurant – A large family restaurant in the New Town serving kebabs and lahmacun for mains, with its baklava particularly praised…
Itineraries
- Southeastern Mesopotamia Antiquities – Savor Gaziantep's culinary heritage, stand before the giant statues of Mount Nemrut, and explore Göbeklitepe and the st…