San Sebastián

A food lover's city on the Bay of Biscay, with La Concha beach, pintxos bars in the old town and views from Monte Igueldo, plus day trips to Basque fishing villages and the Zumaia coast.

San Sebastián (Donostia in Basque) lies in the province of Gipuzkoa in Spain's Basque Country, on the Bay of Biscay, and is one of Europe's most celebrated food and seaside cities. The city wraps around La Concha Bay: Monte Igueldo to the west, Monte Urgull to the east and Santa Clara Island at the bay's mouth enclose its calm waters, while Zurriola Beach to the east is a surfing hotspot. The climate is mild and oceanic, with summer temperatures around 20–26°C and a beach season from June to September; rain falls year-round, so bring rain gear in spring and autumn. The San Sebastián International Film Festival takes place in late September, when accommodation is tight. Areas to explore: the Old Town (Parte Vieja) has the densest concentration of pintxos bars, along with the Plaza de la Constitución, the Basilica of Santa María del Coro and the San Telmo Museum; following the La Concha promenade west leads to Miramar Palace, Ondarreta Beach and Chillida's The Comb of the Wind, from where a century-old funicular climbs Monte Igueldo for panoramic views; the clifftop trail over Mount Ulia leads on foot to Pasaia. The city has one of the world's highest densities of Michelin-starred restaurants per capita; Arzak, Akelarre, Martín Berasategui and others need booking months ahead. Day trips: west along the coast to Getaria, the flysch coast at Zumaia and Zarautz; east to the old town of Hondarribia and the fishing village of Pasai Donibane; and inland to the Sanctuary of Loyola. Getting there: the local airport has few flights, so most visitors come via Bilbao Airport (direct bus about 1 h 15 min) or Biarritz Airport in France; high-speed and long-distance trains link the city with Madrid, and buses to Bilbao are frequent. Stay 2–3 days, or 3–4 days with day trips. Note: Spaniards dine late (after 9 pm), and some restaurants close on Sundays and Mondays; at pintxos bars, order one or two items before moving on to the next.

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Itineraries