Shah-i-Zinda

Shohizinda

A hillside staircase lined with 11th- to 15th-century mausoleums, where every facade is a masterpiece of blue and turquoise glazed tiles: Samarkand's finest tile artistry.

Shah-i-Zinda ('the Living King') takes its name from the legend of Qusam ibn Abbas, a cousin of the Prophet Muhammad. According to the story, he was beheaded when he came to preach here in the 7th century, but he picked up his head, jumped into a well, and is still alive to this day.

Around his mausoleum (11th century, the oldest part of the complex), Timurid royals and nobles built more than 20 tombs on the southern slope of Afrasiab Hill, forming a roughly 70-metre-long avenue of tombs that climbs up the hill. The lower section has two 15th-century mausoleums. The middle section holds the tombs of Timur's sister and niece: the Shadi Mulk Aka Mausoleum (1372), with the most exquisite carved glazed tiles, and the Shirin Bika Aka Mausoleum, whose outer walls are decorated with mosaic plant motifs. The upper section contains the oldest tomb, Qusam's mausoleum and mosque, along with the 15th-century Tuman Aka Mausoleum.

Each building is a different shade of blue, including cobalt, turquoise and ultramarine, complemented by unglazed terracotta reliefs. It is a museum of Central Asian glazed-tile craftsmanship. The site remains an active pilgrimage destination. Visitors must take off their shoes to enter Qusam's mausoleum, and women must cover their heads.

Admission for foreigners is about 50,000 sum (around 30 yuan). Opening hours are 08:00–19:00 (until 17:00 in winter). Legend says that if you count the steps at the entrance going up and down and get the same number both ways, your wish will come true; there are 36 steps in total.

The best times to visit are 8–10 am or after 5 pm, since midday brings the largest tour groups. It is a 15-minute walk from Bibi-Khanym Mosque, or a 5-minute taxi ride. Nearby are Samarkand's Grand Cemetery and the Tomb of St Daniel.

Allow 1 to 1.5 hours for your visit. Note that the avenue is narrow, so try to avoid tour groups, and do not take photos while worshippers are praying.

Shah-i-Zinda

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