Registan

Registon

A square enclosed by three madrasas dating from the 15th to 17th centuries, with blue domes, mosaic patterns and tiger-and-lion motifs. It is widely considered the most magnificent architectural ensemble in Central Asia.

Registan, meaning “sandy place,” was the central square of Samarkand during the Timurid Empire. A madrasa stands on each of three sides. On the west is the Ulugh Beg Madrasa (1417–1420), built by Ulugh Beg, grandson of Timur and an astronomer. Its facade is decorated with star patterns, and he taught mathematics and astronomy here himself. On the east is the Sher-Dor Madrasa (1619–1636). Its arched entrance is decorated with lions and tigers chasing white deer, alongside a human-faced sun. This broke the Islamic taboo on depicting animals, and it is one of Uzbekistan's national symbols. In the middle of the north side stands the Tilya-Kori Madrasa (1646–1660). Its name means “covered with gold.” The mosque inside is decorated with gold leaf on its domes and walls, making it the most ornate interior of the three. Today the courtyards of all three buildings hold handicraft shops and small museums, where you can buy Suzani embroidery, ceramics and miniature paintings. Admission for foreigners is about 60,000 sums (roughly 35 yuan). The site is open about 08:00–19:00, extended to 20:00 in summer. The evening light show is free, and you can watch it from the viewing terrace outside the square. Visiting tips: arrive when the gates open and see Tilya-Kori's golden dome first, then go inside Ulugh Beg Madrasa. The viewing terrace outside the square offers the best full view, and the facade is most photogenic in the side light between 5 and 6 p.m. Return after dark for the lights. Guards sometimes offer, unofficially, to take you up the minaret for a panoramic view for a fee (about 50,000–100,000 sums). This is not permitted, so be cautious. There is a Bibikhanum teahouse and several restaurants within a five-minute walk. Note: drones are prohibited in the square, and allow at least two hours to see all three madrasas.

Registan

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