Central Pune
Former capital of the Maratha Empire, with Peshwa palaces, a Gandhi memorial and Ganesh temples in the city, and Shivaji's hill forts such as Sinhagad and Rajgad nearby, best hiked in the monsoon.
Pune is the second-largest city in Maharashtra, India, lying on the western edge of the Deccan Plateau about 150 km southeast of Mumbai at an altitude of about 560 m. In the 18th century it was the seat of power of the Peshwas, the prime ministers of the Maratha Empire; today it is a major centre for education, IT and the car industry, nicknamed the Queen of the Deccan. The city has two main areas. The old city's peths are home to Shaniwar Wada, Lal Mahal, Dagdusheth Ganpati Temple, the Raja Dinkar Kelkar Museum and Vishrambaug Wada, and can be explored on foot in half a day. To the east, the Cantonment and Koregaon Park area has the Gandhi memorial at the Aga Khan Palace, the Osho meditation resort, the National War Memorial, and cafés and bars. Trips around Pune revolve around Shivaji's hill forts: Sinhagad Fort to the southwest is a half-day trip, while Rajgad and Torna forts make full-day hikes. To the north are Shivneri Fort, Shivaji's birthplace, and the Lenyadri Ganesh caves; to the northwest is the jyotirlinga shrine of Bhimashankar; to the southeast are the Khandoba Temple at Jejuri and Purandar Fort; and in the monsoon, head to Mulshi Lake and Tamhini Ghat for waterfalls. Lonavala, the Karla Caves and Mahabaleshwar are covered as separate destinations. The best season is Oct–Feb, when it is cool and dry; during the Jun–Sep monsoon the mountains are at their most beautiful with mist and waterfalls, but trails are slippery; Mar–May is hot. Ganesh Chaturthi in Aug–Sep is Pune's biggest festival. Getting there: Pune Airport has domestic flights; from Mumbai, trains such as the Deccan Queen take about 3 hours, as does the Mumbai–Pune Expressway. Traffic in the city is heavy, so ride-hailing or a hired car is the usual way between sights. Allow 2–4 days.
Top sights
- Shaniwar Wada – Built in 1732 as the residence of the Peshwas, the prime ministers of the Maratha Empire, Shaniwar Wada still has its massive ramparts and…
- Aga Khan Palace – Completed in 1892 in an Italianate style with arcaded galleries, the palace is where Gandhi was held under house arrest from 1942 to 1944…
- Shrimant Dagdusheth Halwai Ganpati Temple – Pune’s most popular Ganesha temple, famous for its richly gold-adorned Ganesha idol, and the focal point of citywide worship during the Gan…
- Sinhagad Fort – A hilltop fortress about 30 km southwest of Pune, made famous by the 1670 Battle of Sinhagad, when Tanaji captured the fort. From the summi…
- Raja Dinkar Kelkar Museum – More than 20,000 everyday Indian craft objects amassed by a single collector, the poet Kelkar; brass lamps, musical instruments, betel nut…
- Parvati Hill – The highest small hill in central Pune; climbing 103 steps reveals Peshwa-era temples and the city at sunset.
- Pataleshwar Cave Temple – An 8th-century Shiva cave temple carved from a single block of basalt, with a round Nandi pavilion in the forecourt, tucked beside the busy…
- Lal Mahal – A rebuilt red palace of Shivaji's childhood home, where in 1663 he staged a night raid on the Mughal general Shaista Khan.
- Vishrambaug Wada – The city residence of Bajirao II, the last Peshwa; its teak-carved facade is a landmark of Pune's traditional wada mansions.
- Saras Baug – A Peshwa-era garden at the foot of Parvati Hill; the Ganesha temple on a lake island draws many worshippers, and it is a favorite evening s…
- Pu La Deshpande Udyan (Pune–Okayama Friendship Garden) – A Japanese-style garden modeled on Okayama's Kōraku-en, with quiet, refined ponds, stone bridges and grassy slopes, commemorating Pune's si…
- Osho International Meditation Resort – A meditation center founded by the Indian spiritual teacher Osho, with a black pyramid building and gardens hidden among the leafy streets…
- Koregaon Park – Pune's most international tree-lined neighborhood, full of cafés, craft beer bars and creative restaurants, and the area where most foreign…
- Shinde Chhatri – A memorial pavilion to Mahadji Shinde, an 18th-century Maratha commander, blending Rajput and English styles, with colored glass and fine c…
- National War Memorial Southern Command – India's first war memorial built with public donations, displaying the names of soldiers killed in action since independence, with a retire…
- Rajiv Gandhi Zoological Park (Katraj Zoo) – A large zoo on Pune's southern outskirts, home to white tigers, lions, elephants and a well-known snake park; good for a half-day outing wi…
- Chaturshringi Temple – A goddess temple on a hillside in northern Pune, dedicated to the 'Four-Peaked Goddess'; the Navratri festival fair is one of the city's li…
- Khadakwasla Dam – A large reservoir on Pune's southwestern outskirts; the spillway is spectacular, and roadside snack stalls and sunsets are local weekend pa…
- Rajgad Fort – The 'King of Forts', where Shivaji made his capital for 26 years; three ridges and the steep, dramatic Balekilla citadel make it one of Mah…
- Torna Fort – The first fort Shivaji captured at the age of 16, at about 1,400 metres the highest hill fort in the Pune region, facing Rajgad across a va…
- Purandar Fort – Where Shivaji signed the Treaty of Purandar with the Mughals in 1665, and the birthplace of his son Sambhaji; the summit offers wide views.
- Khandoba Temple, Jejuri – The main temple of Khandoba, a deity worshipped by herders and farmers in Maharashtra, where devotees throw turmeric powder and the steps a…
- Shivneri Fort – Birthplace in 1630 of Shivaji, founder of the Maratha kingdom; the hill fort has seven gates, the chamber where he was born, and a statue o…
- Lenyadri Caves – A group of Buddhist cave temples carved between the 1st and 3rd centuries; Cave 7 houses Girijatmaj, one of the eight Ashtavinayak Ganesha…
- Bhimashankar Temple – One of India's twelve Jyotirlingas, hidden deep in the primeval forests of the Western Ghats and surrounded by a sanctuary for the Indian g…
- Tamhini Ghat – A Western Ghats mountain pass road west of Mulshi Lake; during the monsoon, waterfalls cover the cliffs along the route, making it Pune's m…
- Mulshi Lake & Dam – A large reservoir on the Mula River; resorts dot the bays of the lake, which is surrounded by mountains, and it is where Pune residents go…
- Alandi (Sant Dnyaneshwar Samadhi) – The samadhi shrine of Sant Dnyaneshwar, a 13th-century Marathi saint, where the annual Wari foot pilgrimage sets off.
Where to eat
- Vaishali Restaurant – A landmark on FC Road that opened in 1954; its South Indian breakfasts and SPDP snacks are a shared memory for Pune stu…
- Bedekar Misal – An old-city misal landmark since 1948 with no branches; a slightly sweet, mildly spicy Pune-style misal served with bre…
- Kayani Bakery – This old bakery in Camp, opened in 1955, often sells out early of its Shrewsbury biscuits and mawa cake.
- Shreyas – Opened in 1966 as the restaurant of the Apte Road hotel, Shreyas is Pune's go-to spot for a Maharashtrian vegetarian th…
- Goodluck Café – This Irani café on FC Road, opened in 1935, is a Pune classic for breakfast, with bun maska, egg-stuffed bread, and Ira…
- Dorabjee & Sons – A Camp area Parsi institution founded in 1878 and now run by the fourth generation, famous for its dhansak and mutton d…
Itineraries
- Western Ghats Caves, Forts & Hill Stations – Climb up the Western Ghats from Mumbai to connect Buddhist caves, Maratha hill forts, Pune's heritage sites, and highla…