Pingyao

China's best-preserved Ming and Qing walled city, with the Rishengchang draft bank, the city walls and Shanxi merchant compounds. A core stop on Shanxi's ancient-architecture trail, famed for its Lunar New Year atmosphere and photography festival.

Pingyao lies in Jinzhong, central Shanxi, in the Fen River valley about 90 km south of Taiyuan. Founded in the Western Zhou period and expanded to its present size in the third year of the Ming Hongwu reign (1370), it has kept its Ming and Qing look intact, with city walls, lanes, draft banks, escort agencies, the county yamen and residences. In 1997 it was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site together with Shuanglin Temple and Zhenguo Temple outside the city. In the Qing dynasty it was China's financial center, and the Rishengchang draft bank pioneered long-distance remittance; the main draw here is Shanxi merchant culture.

A visit has three layers: ① Inside the old city – centered on South Street and West Street, the city walls, Market Tower, Rishengchang, the county yamen, Confucian Temple, City God Temple, Qingxu Taoist Temple, Xietongqing and the escort agency are all within walking distance, and in the evening you can watch "Encore Pingyao" (Youjian Pingyao); ② The outskirts – Shuanglin Temple (painted sculptures) is 6 km from the city and Zhenguo Temple (with its Five Dynasties Thousand Buddha Hall) is 12 km away; ③ Around Jinzhong – the Qiao Family Compound and Qu Family Compound in Qi County, the Cao Family Compound and H. H. Kung's residence and garden in Taigu, the Wang Family Compound and Zishou Temple in Lingshi, Mianshan in Jiexiu, Zhangbi Ancient Fort and Houtu Temple, and Xinghua Village in Fenyang are all roughly 60 km away and suit a day trip by chartered car.

April–May and September–October are the most pleasant months. Accommodation is tight during the Pingyao International Photography Festival in September and the Pingyao International Film Festival in October. Winters are cold, and at Spring Festival the "Pingyao Chinese New Year" festivities fill the town with lanterns and the strongest holiday atmosphere. Getting there: from Taiyuan South Station, the high-speed train to Pingyao Ancient City Station takes about 30–40 minutes, and from Beijing West about 4 hours. The station is about 7 km from the old city, a 15-minute bus or taxi ride. Motor vehicles are banned inside the old city, so get around on foot or by electric cart. Allow 2–3 days. The old-city combination ticket is valid for three days and covers the city walls and more than 20 sights (not Shuanglin Temple, Zhenguo Temple or the performance); check the price announced for the current year. Don't miss Pingyao beef, wantuo (steamed buckwheat jelly) and oat-noodle kaolaolao rolls.

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