Pasto
A highland city at the foot of Galeras Volcano, home to the UNESCO-listed Blacks and Whites Carnival, with Laguna de la Cocha, Azufral's Laguna Verde and Las Lajas Sanctuary nearby.
Pasto, officially San Juan de Pasto, is the capital of Nariño Department in southwestern Colombia. It sits in the Andean Atriz Valley at about 2,500 m, backed by the still-active Galeras Volcano, roughly 80 km from the Ecuadorian border. Founded in 1537, the city has many colonial-era churches and is nicknamed the "Theological City". The Blacks and Whites Carnival (Carnaval de Negros y Blancos), held every year on January 2–7, was inscribed on UNESCO's list of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2009 and is famous nationwide for its giant floats and city-wide daubing of black and white paint. The climate is cool year-round, around 12–20°C by day and chilly at night; June–September is relatively dry and good for hiking and the lakes, while October–December and March–May are wetter. A visit splits into three parts: downtown, with Plaza de Nariño, the Cathedral, the Church of San Juan Bautista, the Church of La Merced, the Gold Museum and the Carnival Museum, all walkable in a day; Laguna de la Cocha, about 25 km southeast, where you can take a boat across the lake, visit La Corota Island and eat rainbow trout in El Encano; and day trips to Las Lajas Sanctuary in a gorge near Ipiales, about 80 km south, to the green crater lake of Azufral Volcano, about 50 km southwest, or to Sandoná, known for its Panama hats. Getting there: Antonio Nariño Airport, about 35 km north of the city, has flights to and from Bogotá and Cali; long-distance buses connect with Cali, Popayán and Ecuador. Plan on 3–4 days. Note that highland temperatures swing widely between day and night, so bring a jacket; the Galeras summit is often closed depending on the volcano's activity level, so check notices from the national parks authority; and book accommodation well ahead for the carnival.
Top sights
- Laguna de la Cocha – An Andean highland lake at 2760 meters, with a village of colorful wooden houses, El Encano, on its shore. Visitors can take boat rides and…
- Las Lajas Sanctuary – A neo-Gothic church built on a bridge over the Guáitara River canyon, often hailed as one of the most beautiful churches in the world.
- Blacks and Whites' Carnival – A carnival on UNESCO's intangible heritage list. Float parades fill the city in early January, and people paint each other black and white…
- Isla de la Corota Sanctuary – A small island nature reserve in Lake Cocha, where a wooden boardwalk crosses primeval Andean cloud forest and a small chapel stands on the…
- Carnival Museum – A museum showing past black-and-white carnival floats, costumes and craftsmanship, so visitors can experience the carnival spirit outside f…
- Laguna Verde (Azufral) – A jade-green sulphur lake inside the crater of the Azufral volcano at about 3,900 metres, the most dramatic hiking destination in Nariño.
- Galeras Volcano – An active volcano west of Pasto at 4,276 metres, one of Colombia's most active, visible from almost everywhere in the city.
- Plaza de Nariño – Pasto's central square, with a statue of independence hero Nariño, surrounded by government buildings and a colonial church.
- Church of San Juan Bautista – One of Pasto's oldest churches, beside Plaza de Nariño, with richly decorated Mudéjar-style woodwork and a gilded altar inside.
- Pasto Cathedral – A Sacred Heart cathedral completed in the early 20th century, its red-and-white façade and twin bell towers making it a city landmark.
- Church of La Merced – A colonial church dedicated to Our Lady of Mercy, patron of Pasto, with an ornate gold altar and a centre of local devotion.
- Church of Cristo Rey – A neo-Gothic church built by the Jesuits, with a saint statue on its outer wall that looks strikingly like Lenin, a local curiosity.
- Church of Santiago Apóstol – A white church on a small hill in the old town, where the steps and square in front offer views over the city and of Galeras Volcano.
- Nariño Gold Museum – A gold museum run by the Banco de la República, showing pre-Columbian gold and pottery from the Nariño highlands.
- Taminango Museum – A folk museum in a 17th-century colonial adobe house, showing traditional crafts and everyday objects of Nariño.
- Sandoná – A hill town famous for hand-woven toquilla straw hats, where you can watch craftspeople at work, browse hat shops and visit a Gothic cathed…
Where to eat
- Tipicuy – A family-style traditional restaurant in Torobajo, famous for charcoal- and wood-roasted guinea pig, and a favorite wit…
- La Merced (Centro) – A local restaurant brand with nearly fifty years in Pasto. The downtown branch serves Pasto-style fried pork and chicke…
- Cuyquer – The name means land of guinea pigs in Quechua. It is a traditional Pasto restaurant with more than thirty years of roas…
- Sausalito – A seafood institution since 1982, cooking seafood in the style of Nariño's Pacific coast. Its smoked trout sushi from L…