Oradea

An Art Nouveau city in western Romania, with the ornate Black Eagle Palace and Union Square, plus Băile Felix spa and Bears' Cave nearby.

Oradea, in northwestern Romania, is the seat of Bihor County, just about 10 km from the Hungarian border, with a population of around 200,000. Historically known as Nagyvárad, it belonged to the Kingdom of Hungary for centuries, and many ethnic Hungarians still live here. An economic boom from the late 19th century into the 1910s left behind hundreds of Art Nouveau (Secession) buildings, earning it the title of "Romania's Art Nouveau capital"; after a thorough restoration of the old town over the past decade or so, it looks brand new, and it is a member of the Réseau Art Nouveau Network. The climate is temperate continental: April–October is the best time to visit; summers are hot but perfect for thermal baths and water parks, while winters are cold. Main sights: south of the Crișul Repede river, around Union Square, stand the Black Eagle Palace and its glass-roofed arcade, the Moon Church with its lunar-phase sphere, the City Hall clock tower and the Zion Neolog Synagogue; on the north bank, pedestrian Republicii Street and Ferdinand Square are home to the State Theatre and the Darvas-La Roche House, among others; to the east lies the star-shaped Oradea Fortress, and to the north the Roman Catholic Cathedral Basilica and the Baroque Bishop's Palace. Nearby: Băile Felix, about 8 km southeast, is Romania's largest spa resort; some 60–80 km east in the Apuseni Mountains are Bears' Cave, Meziad Cave and the Crișul Repede Gorge (Vadu Crișului), ideal for a day trip by car. Getting there: Oradea Airport has flights to Bucharest and some European cities; Budapest is about 3–4 hours away by car or train, and Cluj-Napoca about 2.5 hours. The old town is compact and easy to explore on foot and by tram. Allow 2–3 days: one day for the city, and half a day to a full day each for the spa and the caves. Note that some buildings and museums close on Mondays, and Bears' Cave can only be visited on a guided tour, with photography forbidden.

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