Öland & Kalmar

Kalmar's Renaissance castle and, across the bridge, Öland, whose southern limestone steppe is a World Heritage Site, dotted with windmills, ancient forts and a royal summer residence.

Öland and Kalmar lie in Kalmar County in southeastern Sweden, made up of the historic Baltic coastal city of Kalmar and the island of Öland opposite, linked by the roughly 6 km Öland Bridge. Öland is Sweden's second-largest island, a long, flat strip about 137 km from north to south and no more than 16 km wide; the Agricultural Landscape of Southern Öland (including the Stora Alvaret limestone steppe) was inscribed as a World Heritage Site in 2000. It is one of Sweden's sunniest and driest regions. June–August is high season, when the beaches, the royal summer residence of Solliden with its gardens, and the various ancient forts are all open; the Öland Harvest Festival (Skördefest) in late September is the island's biggest celebration. From October many attractions and restaurants close or cut their hours, and winters are cold and windy. The area divides into three parts: Kalmar city, with the Renaissance Kalmar Castle, the Baroque cathedral, the Kvarnholmen old town and the Kalmar County Museum (home to the warship Kronan); central and northern Öland, with the ruins of Borgholm Castle, Solliden Palace, the Ismantorp ancient fort, the Byrum sea stacks, the Troll Forest, Långe Erik lighthouse and Böda beach; and southern Öland, with Stora Alvaret, Eketorp fort, the Gettlinge burial ground and, at the southern tip, Långe Jan lighthouse and the Ottenby bird reserve. About 50–70 km west of Kalmar, the glassworks of the "Kingdom of Crystal", such as Kosta and Orrefors, make a good half-day trip. Getting there: Kalmar has an airport (about an hour's flight from Stockholm), and trains from Stockholm, Gothenburg and Copenhagen take about 4–5 hours. Buses on the island are infrequent, so driving or renting a bike is recommended; a driving tour of the island usually takes 2 days. Allow 3–4 days: 1 day for Kalmar and a day each for northern and southern Öland. Most sights on the island are open-air ruins, so bring sun protection and plenty of water in summer, and book accommodation well ahead in high season.

Top sights

• Kalmar Castle – One of Sweden's best-preserved Renaissance castles, surrounded by a moat. The Kalmar Union was sealed here in 1397.
• Borgholm Castle – An Öland landmark, where the massive Baroque palace ruins stand on a limestone plateau overlooking the Kalmar Strait.
• Stora Alvaret – Europe's largest limestone wasteland and the core of the Southern Öland agricultural landscape World Heritage Site, dotted with windmills a…
• Eketorp Ringfort – A reconstructed Iron Age circular stone fort based on archaeological findings, with rebuilt houses inside and ancient livestock breeds graz…
• Kalmar Cathedral – A masterpiece of Swedish Baroque architecture, located on the Stortorget square and designed by court architect Nicodemus Tessin the Elder.
• Kalmar County Museum – Focused on artifacts salvaged from the 17th-century warship Kronan, which sank, making it the best place to learn about the maritime histor…
• Kvarnholmen & Stortorget – A 17th-century island old town planned on a grid, with remnants of city walls, Baroque squares, and harbor promenades that are perfect for…
• Kalmar Art Museum – A modern architectural art museum in the city park beside the castle. It houses modern and contemporary Swedish art and hosts regular conte…
• Öland Bridge – A sea-crossing bridge connecting Kalmar and Öland, about 6 kilometers long and one of the longest bridges in Sweden.
• Solliden Palace – The summer palace of the Swedish royal family, with an Italian-style villa and Italian, Dutch, English, and rose gardens open to the public.
• Långe Jan – Sweden's tallest lighthouse, located at the southernmost tip of Öland. Visitors can climb it to overlook Ottenby Point and the bird migrati…
• Ottenby Nature Reserve – An old royal hunting ground at the southern tip of Öland and a hotspot for bird migration, where seals often bask on the headland.
• Långe Erik – A white lighthouse at the northernmost tip of Öland, built on a small island and surrounded by coastal rocks next to the Trollskogen forest.
• Trollskogen – A nature reserve at the northern tip of Öland, where ancient pines and oaks have been twisted by sea winds into strange shapes, resembling…
• Byrums raukar – A group of limestone sea stacks on Öland's northwest coast, and the island's most popular sunset spot.
• Gettlinge Gravfält – The largest prehistoric burial ground on Öland, with ship-shaped stone settings and a traditional windmill, stretching about 2 kilometers a…
• Ismantorp Fortress – The best-preserved unrestored Iron Age ring fort on Öland, with nine gates and nearly a hundred clearly visible house foundations.
• Gråborg – The largest ring fort on Öland, surrounded by high walls, with the ruins of the medieval St. Knut's Chapel nearby.
• Karlevi Runestone – A Viking-age runestone from around AD 1000, inscribed with the only known complete skaldic verse carved in stone.
• Himmelsberga Open-Air Museum – A well-preserved open-air museum of traditional Öland farm villages, with farmhouses, barns, windmills, and contemporary art exhibits.
• Lerkaka Windmills – The most famous windmill group on Öland, with five traditional post mills lined up in a row. It is the most photographed view on the island.
• Böda Sand – A white-sand beach stretching more than 10 kilometers along the north of Öland, framed by pine forests, and one of Sweden's most popular be…
• Kapelludden – A small headland on Öland's east coast, where a red-and-white lighthouse stands beside the ruins of a medieval chapel. A good place for bir…
• Öland Zoo & Amusement Park – A zoo, amusement park, and water park near the bridge, and the largest family attraction on Öland.
• Sandby Borg – The site of an Iron Age ring fort where a massacre took place in the 5th century. The archaeological discoveries shocked scholars, and the…
• Kosta Glassworks – The oldest glassworks in the 'Glass Kingdom,' founded in 1742. Visitors can watch glassblowing demonstrations, shop at the factory store, a…
• Orrefors Glassworks – A century-old glassworks known for crystal art glass, with a glass museum, glassblowing demonstrations, and a factory shop.

Where to eat

• Postgatan – Kalmar's highest-rated restaurant in the White Guide, calling itself a gastronomic hangout, blending classic and modern…
• Kullzenska Caféet – A café on the second floor of a turn-of-the-century apartment building, keeping its original furniture and wallpaper, k…
• Trädgårdsgatan 26 – A small restaurant where chef Jonas Åhman cooks solo, serving a set menu that changes weekly and long rated the top res…
• Lammet och Grisen – Hosting roast feasts in northern Öland since 1969, where a whole lamb and pig are roasted and carved on-site, a highlig…
• Hattmakarn – Opened in autumn 2024 and earned a White Guide listing right away, this old-town tavern serves classic Swedish small pl…
• Lundgrens Garage – A popular barbecue and steakhouse in Borgholm with a lively atmosphere; its beef brisket, slow-cooked at low temperatur…

Itineraries

• Southern Sweden Coast & Islands Self-Drive Loop – Depart from Copenhagen and loop through Österlen, historic naval towns, Öland, and Kullaberg