Mohéli

The most unspoiled island in the Comoros, with coral reefs in Mohéli Marine Park, sea turtle beaches at Itsamia and seasonal humpback whales. It is peaceful and free from mass tourism.

Mohéli (locally called Mwali) is the smallest and least populated of the four main islands of the Union of the Comoros. It covers about 290 square kilometres and lies between Grande Comore and Anjouan. Its capital, Fomboni, is on the north coast. About three-quarters of the island's land and surrounding waters are part of Mohéli National Park, formerly known as Mohéli Marine Park, established in 2001 as the Comoros' first protected area. The park is known for its pristine nature. On the south coast, the lagoon has coral reefs and eight small islands. Green and hawksbill sea turtles come ashore to nest year-round, humpback whales come to calve from July to October, and dugongs and dolphins can also be seen. In the central mountain ridge rainforest, the critically endangered Livingstone's fruit bat and several endemic bird species make their home.

The climate is tropical maritime. May to October is the dry season, cool and dry, and it is the best time to travel. November to April is hot, humid and rainy, and there is a risk of cyclones from January to March.

The island can be explored in three parts. The south centres on the village of Nioumachoua, which is the base for chartered boat trips to the islands, snorkelling and diving, and whale watching. In the southeast, the village of Itsamia offers night-time sea turtle watching and hikes to Boubouni crater lake. The centre and west, around Wara, offer rainforest hikes, waterfalls and fruit bat spotting.

Getting there: From Moroni, the capital of Grande Comore, take a small plane for about 20 minutes, or a ferry for several hours, to Fomboni. Roads around the island are of average quality, so transport is mainly by chartered car or shared taxi.

Plan to stay 3–5 days. The island has very few tourist facilities, and accommodation consists mainly of eco-cabins and community guesthouses, which should be arranged in advance. Cash is essential (Comorian francs and euros), as cards are almost never accepted. This is a conservative Muslim society, so dress modestly and observe food and etiquette customs during Ramadan. Entry to the national park requires a conservation fee.

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