Maoxian
China's largest Qiang-populated county, where the Ancient Qiang City, Diexi Lake and the alpine lakes of Songpinggou make an in-depth Qiang culture stop on the way from Chengdu to Jiuzhaigou.
Maoxian lies in the southeast of the Ngawa Prefecture, Sichuan, on the upper reaches of the Min River, and is China's largest Qiang-populated county. The county town, Fengyi, is about 200 km from Chengdu — roughly 3 hours via the Dujiangyan–Wenchuan Expressway and National Highway 213 — and sits on the main route from Chengdu to Jiuzhaigou and Huanglong. The area divides into three parts: around the county town, the Ancient Qiang City of China, Pingtou Qiang Village and the Qiang Museum showcase the Qiang King's residence, watchtowers and Shibi (shaman) culture; in the north, Diexi Town has Diexi Lake, formed by the great 1933 earthquake, and the alpine lakes of Songpinggou, whose waters and autumn foliage have earned the nickname "Little Jiuzhaigou"; in the south are the Jiudingshan Taiziling Ski Resort and Moutuo Qiang Village, while high on the mountainside to the west, Heihu Qiang Village preserves a cluster of watchtowers and the custom of white headscarves. The area has a dry-valley climate; the county town sits at about 1,600 m, with cool summers and little snow in winter. Peach and pear trees blossom in March, Songpinggou is a cool summer escape Jun–Sep, autumn foliage peaks in October, and the Qiang New Year, around the 1st day of the 10th lunar month, is the liveliest time of year. Allow 2 days: one for the Ancient Qiang City and around the county town, one for Diexi and Songpinggou. In the rainy season (Jul–Aug) the Min River valley is prone to mudslides and rockfall, so check road conditions before you travel.
Top sights
- Ancient Qiang City – A Qiang-culture themed ancient town rebuilt after the disaster, bringing together the Qiang King's stronghold, watchtower clusters and the…
- Songping Valley – High-mountain lakes formed by the Diexi earthquake. Changhai, Mohai, Bailahai and Wucai Pond string together along an emerald gorge.
- Pingtou Qiang Village – A Qiang village right beside the ancient Qiang City, with stone houses, watchtowers and Qiang farmhouse restaurant-guesthouses. A good plac…
- Diexi Lake – A barrier lake formed when the 1933 Diexi earthquake sent a mountain collapse blocking the Min River. The ancient town of Diexi lies beneat…
- Baila Qiang Village – A traditional Qiang village in the Songping Gully, with stone houses built into the hillside. Visitors can eat and stay with Qiang families…
- Jiuding Mountain & Taiziling – A high-mountain sightseeing and skiing area in southern Maoxian. Taiziling Ski Resort is one of the larger ski resorts in western Sichuan c…
- Mutuo Qiang Village – A Qiang village on the Min River bank, the site where the Warring States-period Mutuo stone coffin tomb was unearthed. It is a Qiang cultur…
- Heihu Qiang Village – A Qiang village of watchtower clusters on a high mountainside. The custom of women wearing white headscarves, known as Wannian Xiao (eterna…
- Yingpanshan Neolithic Site – A large Neolithic settlement site on the upper Min River, dating back about 5,000 years. It is a National Key Cultural Relics Protection Un…
- Taoping Qiang Village – The best-preserved thousand-year-old Qiang village in Li County, often called the 'Oriental Castle' for its watchtowers, underground water…
- Mengtun Valley – A high-mountain valley in Li County stretching from Xiameng to Shangmeng, where layered autumn foliage and Qiang villages make it a popular…
Where to eat
- Pinwei Farmhouse Copper Pot – A long-established Qiang-style copper pot restaurant at the traffic light on Binhe Road. Its yak rib and cured-meat ear…
- Daqiang Brazier BBQ (Maoxian Flagship) – A brazier BBQ restaurant on Binhe Road where guests grill yak beef, pork belly and tofu over charcoal. It ranks high on…