Malargüe

A small gateway town to the wilderness of southern Mendoza, the starting point for the black volcanic fields of La Payunia, the Caverna de las Brujas and the Las Leñas ski resort.

Malargüe lies in the far south of Mendoza Province, Argentina, on the high, wild plateau along Ruta 40 at the eastern foot of the Andes, at about 1,400 m. Built on livestock and oil, the small town is now the base for adventure tourism in southern Mendoza. The town itself is small, with a church, restaurants and tour agencies around the main square; to the north are the striking Malargüe Planetarium and the visitor centre of the Pierre Auger cosmic-ray observatory, and the night skies here are exceptionally clear. The surrounding sights lie in three directions. To the south is the La Payunia reserve, where hundreds of volcanic cones, black lava fields and free-roaming guanacos create a lunar landscape; it is visited on a day trip by 4x4 tour, which can take in the Malacara volcano, the Manqui Malal waterfall and the Caverna de las Brujas (Witches' Cave) along the way. To the northwest, along the mountain road to Las Leñas, are the Pozo de las Ánimas and Laguna de la Niña Encantada, and in winter Las Leñas is a renowned South American ski resort. To the west on the outskirts is the Castillos de Pincheira rock formation, and to the southeast the Llancanelo lagoon, a haven for migratory birds. Getting there: about 4.5–5 hours' drive (about 420 km) from the city of Mendoza, with long-distance buses; in the ski season there are charter flights and shuttles straight to Las Leñas. November–April is dry and pleasant, best for volcano and cave tours; June–September is for skiing, but some backcountry routes may be closed by snow. On the plateau, UV is intense and temperatures swing widely between day and night; backcountry routes are mostly gravel with no services, so join a tour or carry plenty of fuel and water. Allow 3–4 days.

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