Lomé

Togo's capital and port, known for its Grand Marché and the Akodessewa Fetish Market; head east to Lake Togo and Togoville to experience West African Vodun culture.

Lomé is the capital and largest city of the West African nation of Togo. Set on the Gulf of Guinea coast and right up against the Ghanaian border to the west, the city stretches east–west along the shore and is one of West Africa's few deep-water ports and a regional logistics hub. This is the traditional homeland of the Ewe and Mina peoples, Vodun beliefs are woven into everyday life, and French is the official language. Sightseeing centres on the old town: the Grand Marché next to the Sacred Heart Cathedral is a hub for West African wax-print fabric; the Independence Monument and the National Museum stand on Independence Square a little to the north; the Palais de Lomé on the western seafront boulevard, the former German governor's palace, has been converted into an arts centre; and the Akodessewa Fetish Market on the northeastern outskirts is the most striking experience of all. About 30–45 km east, Lake Togo, Togoville, the Agbodrafo slave house and Aného make a good day trip, and crossing the lake by dugout canoe is a classic outing. The best time to visit is the dry season from November to March, though from December to February the harmattan blows in from the Sahara and leaves the air hazy; April–July and September–October are the rainy seasons. Getting there: Lomé–Tokoin International Airport has flights to Accra, Lagos, Addis Ababa, Paris and elsewhere; overland, Cotonou in Benin is about 3 hours to the east. Getting around town is mainly by motorbike taxi (zémidjan) and taxi; agree on the fare before you get on. Plan on 2–3 days. Tips: a yellow fever vaccination certificate is required for entry and malaria prophylaxis is recommended; strong rip currents make the sea unsafe for swimming; ask permission before taking photos at Vodun sites, and avoid walking alone on deserted beaches at night.

Top sights

• Akodessewa Fetish Market – The largest voodoo market in West Africa. Stalls are piled with animal skulls, pelts and amulets, and you can talk with priests to learn ab…
• Grand Marché de Lomé – A three-story central market and the surrounding neighborhood in the city center. It is the home turf of the “Nana Benz” women traders who…
• Palais de Lomé – An arts center converted from a German colonial-era governor's palace. It features colonial architecture, contemporary African art exhibiti…
• Independence Monument – A white monument erected when Togo gained independence in 1960. Its relief shows a figure breaking free from chains, and it stands in the c…
• Togo National Museum – A national museum on the ground floor of the International Conference Centre beside Independence Square, displaying masks, musical instrume…
• Sacred Heart Cathedral of Lomé – A neo-Gothic twin-towered church built in 1902 by German missionaries, the visual center of Lomé’s old town.
• Lomé Beach & Boulevard du Mono – A city beach stretching along the Gulf of Guinea, where palm trees, the seafront boulevard and evening snack stalls on the sand make up Lom…
• Village Artisanal de Lomé – A government-backed craft centre where you can watch woodcarvers, weavers, leatherworkers and batik makers at work, with fixed, clearly mar…
• International Museum of African Art of the Gulf of Guinea (MIAA) – A privately owned museum of traditional West African art, with plenty of masks, sculptures and royal objects, and in-depth explanations.
• Lake Togo – The largest lagoon on the coast, where you can cross the lake by dugout canoe to Togoville, with lakeside resorts offering watersports.
• Togoville – The source of the name Togo, where a German protectorate treaty was signed in 1884. The village has vodun shrines, a cathedral and the roya…
• Woold Homé (Slave House of Agbodrafo) – A colonial mansion used after the slave trade was outlawed in the 19th century to secretly hold enslaved people; its underground cells and…
• Aného – Togo's first colonial capital, a small old port town between lagoon and sea, where colonial buildings and vodun culture intertwine.

Where to eat

• Chez Brovi – One of Lomé's best-known traditional maquis, grilling fresh fish to order and serving it with akyeke and fried plantain…
• Namiele Restaurant – A buffet restaurant on the ground floor of the 2 Février Hotel, offering many traditional Togolese dishes such as akume…
• Alt München Restaurant – A long-standing German-style restaurant across from the port, said to be one of Lomé's oldest, serving German draught b…

Itineraries

• Ghana, Togo & Benin Coastal Cultural Journey – Travel from Accra to Cotonou, connecting coastal castles, Ashanti heritage, Voodoo culture, and stilt villages.
• West African Coast: Lagos to Accra – Traverse four countries along the Gulf of Guinea, connecting slave trade heritage sites, Voodoo culture, and coastal ca…