Langzhong Ancient City

One of China's Four Great Ancient Cities, a feng shui town wrapped on three sides by the Jialing River, with Zhang Fei Temple, the Examination Hall, northern Sichuan cold jelly noodles and Baoning vinegar; Sichuan's most lively ancient city.

Langzhong lies in northeastern Sichuan, in the north of Nanchong, a county-level city on the middle reaches of the Jialing River. Formerly known as "Langyuan" and "Baoning," it has been a political and military stronghold of northern Sichuan for more than 2,000 years, and together with Lijiang in Yunnan, Pingyao in Shanxi and Shexian in Anhui it is known as one of "China's Four Great Ancient Cities." The old town sits on the north bank of the Jialing River, embraced by the water on the west, south and east, backed by Panlong Mountain and facing Jinping Mountain, and is regarded as a model of a feng shui city. Main areas to visit: inside the old town, laid out in a grid around Zhongtian Tower, you will find Zhang Fei Temple (Hanhuanhou Shrine), the Chuanbeidao Examination Hall, Huaguang Tower, the Chuanbeidao Magistrate's Office, the Feng Shui Museum and many Ming and Qing courtyards, all within walking distance; allow 1–2 days to explore. Across the river, Jinping Mountain offers a panoramic view of the old town, and to the northeast Baba Temple, Tengwang Pavilion and Great Buddha Temple make good extensions. Seasons: March–May and September–November have pleasant weather; during the Spring Festival, the Langzhong Spring Festival Culture and Tourism Festival takes place (Langzhong is the hometown of the Western Han astronomer Luoxia Hong and is known as the "birthplace of the Spring Festival"), with lantern fairs and folk performances that are lively but extremely crowded; summers are muggy and rainy. Getting there: Langzhong Station on the Lanzhou–Chongqing Railway has high-speed trains to Chengdu, Chongqing and Guangyuan, and Chengdu East to Langzhong takes about 2–2.5 hours; Langzhong Ancient City Airport has a few flights; from the city center to the old town is about 10–15 minutes by taxi. We suggest 2 days, with one night in an old-town inn to enjoy the night views. Tickets: walking the old town's streets is free, while Zhang Fei Temple, the Examination Hall, Huaguang Tower, Zhongtian Tower and others charge separate admission; several combination tickets are available (RMB 120–130), and guide services cost extra. Food: Zhang Fei beef, Baoning vinegar, Baoning yajiu (fermented rice wine), northern Sichuan cold jelly noodles, sugar-filled steamed buns, and cold beef noodles. Notes: some popular courtyards in the old town are heavily commercialized, so visit early in the morning or at dusk; it is windy by the Jialing River at night, and in summer be prepared for mosquitoes.

Top sights

• Langzhong Old Town – A well-preserved ancient town with Tang and Song-era street layouts and Ming and Qing courtyard houses. Known as the "Number One River and…
• Zhang Fei Temple (Zhang Huanhou Temple) – The shrine and tomb of Zhang Fei, the Three Kingdoms general who guarded Langzhong for seven years and was buried there. It has Ming and Qi…
• Chuanbei Imperial Examination Hall – One of China's most completely preserved imperial examination halls from the Qing dynasty. Its exam cells, Mingyuan Tower and examiners' ro…
• Huaguang Tower – A four-storey wooden tower on the river at the southern end of the old town, known as ‘Langyuan’s No. 1 Tower.’ Its views over the Jialing…
• Zhongtian Tower – The feng shui heart of Langzhong's old town. This three-tiered tower straddles the street, and the old town's lanes radiate outward from it…
• Jinping Mountain – A famous mountain on the south bank of the Jialing River, facing the old town across the water. Known as ‘the First Scenic View on the Jial…
• Baba Mosque – A Sufi Islamic shrine dating to the Kangxi era of the Qing dynasty, combining a garden-style layout, Chinese brick-and-timber architecture…
• Dongshan Garden (Daxiangshan Buddha & White Pagoda) – A hillside garden across the river east of the old town, with a Tang-dynasty rock-carved Buddha at Daxiangshan and a white pagoda on the su…
• Tengwang Pavilion on Yutai Mountain – The site of a pavilion built in Tang times by Li Yuanying, Prince of Teng, in Langzhong, which Du Fu wrote poems about. An ancient stone pa…
• Chuanbei Circuit Yamen – A reconstructed Qing-era government office of the Chuanbei Circuit, laid out like a yamen, with a main hall, second hall and sealing rooms…
• Langzhong Fengshui Museum – An exhibition on ancient feng shui culture and the siting of Langzhong as a city, explaining the old town's layout of ‘mountains encircling…
• Nanjinguan Ancient Town – A historic ferry town at the foot of Jinping Mountain on the south bank of the Jialing River, with well-preserved old streets and a wharf…
• Guanyin Temple of Langzhong – A Ming-dynasty temple in the northeast of the old town, with Ming halls and painted sculptures. A nationally protected site with few visito…
• Yong'an Temple – An ancient temple in the countryside about 25 km southeast of Langzhong. Its main hall is a Yuan-dynasty timber structure with Ming murals…
• Wulong Temple Wenchang Pavilion – A Yuan-dynasty timber hall in the countryside northwest of Langzhong. The beams and brackets of its Wenchang Pavilion are well preserved, a…
• Tiangongyuan – An ancient town south of Langzhong city. Legend says Tang-dynasty astronomers Yuan Tiangang and Li Chunfeng studied the heavens here and we…
• Shengzhong Lake – A large artificial lake southwest of Langzhong, with many coves and clear water. It is a well-known fishing destination in China and suits…

Itineraries

• Ancient Shu Road: Jianmen Pass & Langzhong – Head north along the Jinniu Road to Guangyuan, passing through Zhaohua, Jianmen Pass, and Cuiyun Corridor to Langzhong…