Hiiumaa

Estonia's second-largest island, sparsely populated, with Kõpu Lighthouse – one of the world's oldest – juniper-covered coasts and manor houses; ideal for slow travel by bike.

Hiiumaa is Estonia's second-largest island, lying off the country's west coast. It covers about 1,000 square km and has fewer than 10,000 permanent residents; more than half the land is pine forest, juniper heath and bog, giving it a sparsely populated, slow-paced feel, and it is known as the "island of lighthouses". The climate is mild and maritime: June–August is the best time to visit, with daytime temperatures around 20°C and extremely long white-night evenings in June; spring and autumn are good for birdwatching, while winters are cold, and in severe winters an ice road across the sea from the mainland occasionally opens. The island divides into four areas: first, the main town of Kärdla in the north (the island's only town) and nearby Ristimägi (Hill of Crosses), Tahkuna Lighthouse and the military museum; second, the Kõpu Peninsula in the west, with Kõpu Lighthouse (first lit in 1531), Ristna Lighthouse, Kalana surf beach and Luidja beach; third, the Käina area in the south, including the Käina church ruins, the Vaemla wool factory and causeway-linked Kassari Island, home to the Sääre Tirp spit and a thatched-roof chapel; and fourth, Suuremõisa Manor, Pühalepa Church and the Soera farm museum near Heltermaa harbor in the east. Getting there: drive or take a bus from Tallinn to Rohuküla harbor (about 1.5 hours), then a ferry of about 75 minutes to Heltermaa (car spaces fill up in summer, so book ahead on the official website); from Sõru harbor in the south, ferries run to Saaremaa, letting you combine both islands; small planes also fly from Tallinn to Kärdla. Public transport on the island is infrequent, so driving or cycling is recommended; the round-island road is about 120 km and flat. Plan to stay 2–3 days. Note: there are few restaurants and shops on the island, and some open only in summer; accommodation is tight on weekends and around Midsummer (June 23–24).

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