Hardanger (Odda · Trolltunga)

Norway's 'Orchard Fjord', ringed by Trolltunga, the Folgefonna glacier, Vøringsfossen and seas of apple blossom.

Hardanger lies in Vestland county in western Norway, centered on the roughly 179 km-long Hardangerfjord. At its southern end, the industrial town of Odda is the base camp for Trolltunga and the Folgefonna glacier. Along the middle of the fjord are the orchard villages of Lofthus, Utne and Kinsarvik, and at the eastern end are Eidfjord and Ulvik. The Folgefonna glacier stretches along the west side of the fjord, while on the east side lies Hardangervidda, the largest mountain plateau in Europe.

Season: Fruit trees blossom in mid to late May, when pink-and-white blooms set against snowy mountains make it the most photogenic time. Jun–Sep is hiking season, and the unguided Trolltunga hiking season runs from about mid-Jun to mid-Sep; waterfalls are at their fullest during the snowmelt. From Aug to Oct you can buy fresh apples, cherries and cider. In winter the mountain trails are snow-covered and Trolltunga can only be hiked with a guide, but most fjord roads remain passable.

Things to do: ① Around Odda: Trolltunga, the Buarbreen glacier, Låtefossen waterfall and the Tyssedal hydropower museum; ② Rosendal side: Bondhusvatnet lake and the Baronial Manor of Rosendal; ③ Middle and eastern fjord: the orchards of Lofthus and the Monk's Steps, the Husedalen waterfall valley, Vøringsfossen, the Hardanger Bridge and Ulvik; ④ Steinsdalsfossen at Norheimsund, where you can walk behind the curtain of water.

Getting there: It is about 1 hour 15 minutes by car from Bergen to Norheimsund and about 3 hours to Odda; there is also a Bergen–Odda bus. Local public transport is infrequent and the area has many ferries and mountain roads, so driving is the most flexible. We suggest 2–4 days, and Trolltunga needs a full day to itself, so book your accommodation early.

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