Guadalajara

Mexico's second city and home of mariachi and tequila, with Orozco murals, the craft district of Tlaquepaque and day trips to the agave landscape of Tequila.

Guadalajara is the capital of Jalisco and Mexico's second-largest metropolitan area (about 5 million people). It lies in the Atemajac Valley at about 1,560 m, enjoys a mild climate, and is called "the most Mexican city in Mexico" — mariachi music, tequila, charrería (Mexican rodeo) and the wide-brimmed sombrero all originated in this region. The historic centre revolves around the cathedral, with four plazas arranged around it in the shape of a cross; to the east, the pedestrian Plaza Tapatía leads straight to the UNESCO-listed Hospicio Cabañas, where the murals of José Clemente Orozco are the highlight. To the west, Colonia Americana and Avenida Chapultepec are the hub for cafés, bars and nightlife; to the southeast, Tlaquepaque and Tonalá are craft and pottery towns; to the north, Zapopan has its basilica and the Barranca de Huentitán canyon. Classic day trips include the town of Tequila and its UNESCO-listed agave landscape, about 60 km northwest (reachable on the José Cuervo Express train), the circular pyramids of Guachimontones, and Lake Chapala, Mexico's largest lake, about 45 km south, with the arts town of Ajijic. The best time to visit is the Oct–May dry season; Jun–Sep brings frequent afternoon thunderstorms. September has Independence Day celebrations and tequila season, and the International Mariachi Festival takes place in late August or early September. The international airport is about 20 km from downtown; the city has light rail and buses, and Uber and DiDi are available. Must-try dishes include torta ahogada (a sandwich drowned in sauce), birria (stewed goat) and tejuino (a fermented corn drink). Plan on 3–5 days, and avoid walking alone at night in quiet neighbourhoods.

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