Graz

Austria's second city, with its red-roofed old town and Schloss Eggenberg listed as World Heritage, the Schlossberg Clock Tower and the Murinsel blending old and new, and the South Styrian Wine Road, dubbed Austria's Tuscany.

Graz is Austria's second-largest city and the capital of Styria, straddling the River Mur about 40 km north of the Slovenian border. Milder and sunnier than Vienna, it is also known as "Austria's Mediterranean". The old town and Schloss Eggenberg are jointly listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with well-preserved red-tiled roofs, Renaissance arcaded courtyards and Baroque palaces. In 2011 the city was named a UNESCO City of Design, and contemporary architecture such as the Murinsel and the "Friendly Alien" Kunsthaus contrasts strikingly with the historic centre. Graz is also a university town, with lots of students and inexpensive food; Styrian pumpkin seed oil, fried chicken (Backhendl) and white wine are its signature flavours. Areas to explore: the old town on the east bank (Hauptplatz, Herrengasse, the arcaded courtyard of the Landhaus, the Armoury, the cathedral and mausoleum, the double spiral staircase in the Burg, the Clock Tower and the Schlossberg); the Murinsel, the Kunsthaus and the Lend district on the west bank; and Schloss Eggenberg on the western edge of the city. For day trips, head to the Stübing open-air museum, the Lipizzaner stud at Piber and the Hundertwasser church, the Schöckl and the caves; to the southeast lie Riegersburg Castle and the Zotter chocolate factory, to the south the South Styrian Wine Road, and to the north the Bärenschützklamm gorge and the emerald-green Grüner See. The best time to visit is May–Oct; during the Sep–Oct grape harvest you can sample new wine at a Buschenschank (wine tavern). Winter brings Christmas markets and an ice sculpture on the Schlossberg. Getting there: Graz Airport has flights to Vienna, Frankfurt and elsewhere; by train it's about 2.5 hours from Vienna and about 4 hours from Salzburg. Trams make getting around easy, and the old town is walkable. Allow 2–3 days, plus a day each for the Wine Road or the castle route. Most shops close on Sundays.

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Itineraries