Esquel & Los Alerces

An Andean gateway in northern Patagonia, with the Old Patagonian Express steam train, World Heritage Los Alerces National Park and the Welsh teahouse town of Trevelin all close by.

Esquel lies in northwestern Chubut Province, Argentina, a small town on the eastern foothills of the Andes in northern Patagonia at about 570 m, some 290 km south of Bariloche and about 600 km west of Trelew on the Atlantic coast. It is one of the settlements founded when Welsh immigrants moved west in the late 19th century, and the surrounding area retains a strong Welsh and Mapuche heritage.

Seasons: December–March is summer, ideal for boat trips, hiking and camping in the national park, with warm days and cool mornings and evenings; October–November is spring, when the tulips bloom in Trevelin; June–September is winter, with snowfall, the La Hoya ski area open, and the steam train at its most photogenic crossing snowy plains. Patagonia is windy, so bring a windproof jacket in any season.

There are three main areas to explore. First, Esquel itself: ride the Old Patagonian Express, La Trochita, to Nahuel Pan, and ski at La Hoya in winter. Second, World Heritage Los Alerces National Park, about 45 km to the west: Lake Futalaufquen, Lago Verde and the suspension-bridge trail over the Arrayanes River, and a boat trip on Lake Menéndez to see thousand-year-old alerce trees (Patagonian cypress). Gravel roads in the park are long, so allow 1–2 days. Third, the Welsh town of Trevelin, 25 km to the south: enjoy a Welsh afternoon tea, then visit the Nant y Fall waterfalls and the Nant Fach mill; continuing west you can cross the border to Futaleufú in Chile.

Getting there: Esquel Airport has flights to and from Buenos Aires (infrequent); more commonly, take a long-distance bus from Bariloche (about 4–5 hours), or drive Ruta 40 via El Bolsón. Public transport in the national park is limited, so renting a car is easiest — fill up the tank and carry cash. Allow 3–4 days.

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Itineraries