El Chaltén
Argentina's trekking capital, with day hikes from town to the glacial lake beneath Mount Fitz Roy, surrounded by Laguna Torre, Lago del Desierto and Viedma Glacier.
El Chaltén lies in northwestern Santa Cruz Province, Argentina, in the northern section of Los Glaciares National Park (a World Heritage Site). Founded in 1985 because of a border dispute, it is now called Argentina's 'National Trekking Capital.' The town sits in the valley where the Fitz Roy and Las Vueltas rivers meet, with Mount Fitz Roy (3,405 m) and Cerro Torre rising behind it. Most trails start right from town, with no entrance fee and no guide required, which is the biggest difference from other national parks.
Climate and seasons: November–April is trekking season, with December–February having the longest daylight and the most people. From late March to April the southern beech forests turn red, giving the best fall colors; from May to September most lodges and restaurants close for winter. It is famous for wind all year round, and the weather can change many times in a day. Fitz Roy is often shrouded in cloud, so plan at least 3 days to wait for clear weather.
Main activities: ① Long day hikes: Laguna de los Tres (Three Lakes viewpoint), Laguna Torre and Pliegue Tumbado; ② Easy half-day hikes: the Condor and Eagle viewpoints, Chorrillo del Salto waterfall and Laguna Capri; ③ Nearby: Lago del Desierto and Huemul Glacier, 37 km to the north, and a boat trip to Viedma Glacier to the south, with ice trekking.
Getting there: the nearest airport is in El Calafate (about 220 km), with several buses a day taking about 3 hours; you can also drive via Route 40 and Provincial Route 23. There are no bank branches in town and ATMs often run out of cash, so bring pesos in advance; mobile signal is weak. Recommended stay: 3–5 days, combined with Perito Moreno Glacier near El Calafate.
Top sights
- Mount Fitz Roy – A jagged granite giant at 3,405 meters, the iconic silhouette of Patagonia and one of the mountains widely regarded as the hardest to climb.
- Laguna de los Tres – A turquoise glacial lake directly below Cerro Fitz Roy, and the classic end point of a one-day hike in Patagonia.
- Laguna Torre – A glacial lake where icebergs drift beneath Cerro Torre. It is a classic trail starting from the town, a round trip of about 18 km.
- Cerro Torre – A granite spire at 3,128 meters that rivals Cerro Fitz Roy in fame. It is known for its steep summit of ice mushrooms and as one of the wor…
- Laguna Capri – A small forest lake halfway along the Fitz Roy Trail, where you can see Mount Fitz Roy reflected in the water after a round trip of about 8…
- Laguna Sucia – An emerald glacial lake hidden beside the Three Lakes viewpoint and about 200 m lower, with a glacier pouring straight down the cliff into…
- Chorrillo del Salto – A forest waterfall about 3 km north of town, reachable on flat ground, ideal for arrival day or a rainy day.
- Mirador de los Cóndores & Las Águilas – Two viewpoints on a small hill at the edge of town, offering views over the village, the valley and the Fitz Roy peaks within an hour.
- Loma del Pliegue Tumbado – A rare 360-degree high viewpoint where you can see both Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre face-on, with far fewer people than at the Three Lakes.
- Piedras Blancas Glacier Viewpoint – A hanging glacier pouring down the northeast slope of Fitz Roy, which you can view from a side viewpoint on the Three Lakes trail.
- Lago del Desierto – A forest lake at the end of a 37 km gravel road north of town, where you can take a boat trip and see the north face of Fitz Roy.
- Huemul Glacier – A glacial lake inside a private estate reserve on the south shore of Lago del Desierto, reached by a forest trail of about 2 hours round tr…
- Viedma Glacier – Argentina's largest glacier. Take a boat from Lago Viedma for a close look at the ice wall, or sign up for a guided ice trek.
- Los Glaciares NP Visitor Center (El Chaltén) – The national park visitor centre at the town entrance, where you can pick up maps and check trails and weather. It is also the starting poi…
- El Chaltén – Founded in 1985 as Argentina's 'Trekking Capital'. All the classic trails start right from town, which is lined with hostels and craft beer…
Where to eat
- La Tapera – A log-cabin-style Patagonian restaurant known for lamb stew, trout and guanaco pasta, consistently among El Chaltén's t…
- Maffia Trattoria – A small trattoria that grew out of a pasta workshop founded in 2003. Its trout sorrentinos and rabbit ravioli are the t…
- La Cervecería Chaltén – A log-cabin brewpub that has brewed its own beer since 1999. A bowl of locro stew with house beer is the classic combo…
Itineraries
- Classic Argentina: Waterfalls, Glaciers & the End of the World – Connect Buenos Aires, Iguazu, the glaciers, Fitz Roy, and Ushuaia using domestic flights.
- Southern Patagonia Glaciers & Torres del Paine – Cross Argentina and Chile to experience Perito Moreno Glacier, Fitz Roy trekking, and the Torres del Paine towers.
- Ruta 40: Bariloche to El Calafate – Drive south along Route 40 for about 1,600 km, crossing from the Lake District through the steppe to the Cave of the Ha…