Dunedin

New Zealand's "Edinburgh of the South", with its Victorian railway station and the world's steepest street, plus royal albatrosses and yellow-eyed penguins on the Otago Peninsula.

Dunedin sits on the south-east coast of New Zealand's South Island in the Otago region. Its name is the old Scottish Gaelic name for Edinburgh. Founded in 1848 by Scottish Presbyterian settlers, it became New Zealand's largest and richest city during the Otago gold rush of the 1860s, leaving behind a wealth of Victorian and Edwardian stone buildings – hence its nickname, the "Edinburgh of the South". The city centres on The Octagon, surrounded by St Paul's Cathedral, the Town Hall and the Robert Burns statue. To the north is the University of Otago, New Zealand's oldest university, whose large student population gives the city a lively café and small-bar scene. The biggest draw is the Otago Peninsula, which juts into the Pacific to the east: follow the harbourside road to Larnach Castle, the royal albatross breeding colony at Taiaroa Head, and bays frequented by yellow-eyed penguins and sea lions – one of the few places in the world where you can see such wildlife on a city's doorstep. Allow 2–3 days: Day 1 in the city (railway station, The Octagon, Chinese Garden, Baldwin Street, Otago Museum); Day 2 on the Otago Peninsula (castle, albatrosses, penguins at dusk); Day 3 at Tunnel Beach or north to the Moeraki Boulders, continuing to Oamaru to see little blue penguins. Getting there: Dunedin Airport is about 30 km from the city, with flights from Auckland, Wellington and Christchurch; driving takes about 4.5–5 hours from Christchurch and 3.5 hours from Queenstown. The climate is cool and changeable: even in summer (Dec–Feb) temperatures often hover around 20°C, while winter (Jun–Aug) is damp and cold with occasional snow. November to March is the best time for seabirds and penguins. Note: roads on the Otago Peninsula are narrow and winding – drive on the left and watch for oncoming traffic. Keep your distance from wildlife (at least 10 m from sea lions), and never block penguins' paths up the beach.

Top sights

Where to eat

Itineraries