Dege

The heart of Khampa culture: the Dege Parkhang printing house, a treasure-trove of Tibetan culture; Xinluhai glacial lake beneath Chola Mountain; and Dzogchen, Dzongsar and Palpung monasteries — the richest stop on the northern Sichuan–Tibet route.

Dege County lies in the northwest of the Garzê Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, Sichuan, facing Jomda County in Tibet across the Jinsha River. It is the last Sichuan county town on the northern Sichuan–Tibet Highway (G317) before entering Tibet. Historically the seat of the Kings of Dege, it is known as the "cradle of Khampa culture" and the "homeland of King Gesar". The county town, Gengqing, sits at about 3,300 m in the Sequ River valley, while to the east the main peak of Chola Mountain rises to 6,168 m.

Best season: Jun–Sep is ideal, with green grasslands and wildflowers by the lakes, though it is the rainy season and landslides occasionally occur. Sep–Oct brings fine autumn colors and settled weather. Winters are cold, the old road over Chola Mountain is snowbound and icy, and some monasteries and guesthouses close.

Areas to explore: ① the county town — the Dege Parkhang (Scripture Printing House) and Gonchen Monastery; ② the eastern route — Chola Mountain pass and tunnel, Xinluhai Lake and Manigango; ③ the northern route — Dzogchen and Shechen monasteries, with the Axu Grassland farther north; ④ the southern route — the Gangtuo Jinsha River Bridge, Palpung and Dzongsar monasteries, and the handicraft valley of Maisu.

Getting there: the nearest airport is Garzê Gesar Airport (about 3 hours by road). Alternatively, drive the northern Sichuan–Tibet route from Kangding or Chengdu via Garzê and Manigango to Dege. Sights are spread out, so hire a car with driver or self-drive. Allow 3–4 days: one in the county town, one on the eastern route to Xinluhai, and one each for the monasteries on the northern or southern routes. Note: altitudes are mostly above 3,300–4,000 m, so watch for altitude sickness; respect religious customs when visiting monasteries; mountain road conditions change quickly, so check the weather and road information before setting out.

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